hello every one, i didn't really introduce my self to this forum but I'm kinda in a hurry to find out if these alignment specs are ok for now. this is for my 2001 STOCK s2000.
FRONTS
camber- L 0.7 degrees R 0.8 degrees
caster- L 6.5 degrees R 6.0 degrees
& 1/16 toe out

REARS
camber- L 2.3 degrees R 2.2 degrees
& 1/8 toe in

i went to West End and told me that they can't do my alingment due to the bolts being stuck do to the rust.
I'm going to have to prepare for the worst and get some parts and save a little more money. That is why i am asking if these specs are temporarly ok.
THANK YOU

 

Wow, what some people will say....
I've heard some bold face lies at some alignment shops, simply because doing an alignment on my car takes too long.

I've heard:
You have a bent knuckle. (lie)
You have a bad shock. (lie)
This car doesn't have rear adjustment. (lie)
(when they couldn't align my steering wheel after two tries) you have worn tie-rods. (lie)

Thank god I do my own alignments now, or only take my car to people that know what they're doing.

For reference I have new shocks, new bushings, and my knuckles and tie rods are in perfect shape. I can align my car in 40 minutes, from start to finish, and that's taking my time. Most shops charge $75 for an alignment, and they rush to do it in 30 minutes.

 

West end is pretty legitimate for alignment, especially if it's an s2000. I'm guessing you saw Darren?

If he says your alignment bolts need to be replaced then maybe they do.

It really comes down to how the car drives. I have never driven an s2000 with front toe out but everything else seems legitimate.

If you need a second opinion you can always go to evasive

 

if your cambers are negative numbers, then it is ok.

like gptoyz says, Westend is legit. They do know about suspensions. Other shops don't know how alignment works, and just look at the monitor and turn wrench.

Ask what parts is seized up exactly, and bring it to the shop.
If you just need camber or caster(ecentric, highly probably) bolts, you can find them under chassis/front knuckle section. They are around $10
Also, I highly recommend to change compliance bushings as well, if you haven't done it

btw, I don't recommend evasive for alignment, just personal experience

 

what parts are from the alignment? let me know which numbers
REAR

FRONT

 

For the front, it looks like 25, 19, 30 and also 26, 13, and 14.

If I'm looking at it wrong, someone can correct me on that.

 

Thank you, what about the rear?

 

24, 25, 27. You will rarely if ever, need 19 up front, nor 15 in the rear.

 

For the seized alignment parts would some penetrating oil help remove them like acetone & MTF? would it mess up the bolts or cam?

 

If you hit the eccentric adjuster bolt dead center and dead flat with an air hammer, you have a very good chance of freeing them up. Soak with PB blaster for 10 minutes first. Put a nut on the threads first, perfectly flush, as to not mushroom them.

85% of the time I can free them up.

#13 (caster adjuster) I can only free up 25-40% of the time.

I would also correct your front toe to a trace positive number (+.05 per side) or you will get inside tire wear.