Ok guys, sorry. Here are ALL of my V-AFC settings. Enjoy and remember that these may not work the best for your engine
WIDE THROTTLE:
LVT- 4000 RPM- 0
LVT- 5000 RPM- -4
LVT- 5500 RPM- -6
LVT- 6000 RPM- -8
LVT- 6500 RPM- 0
HVT- 7200 RPM- 0
HVT- 7800 RPM- -9
HVT- 9000 RPM- 0
NARR THROTTLE: all zeros
LVL- 10
RPM- 0
HVT- 40
RPM- 0
V/T CONTR.:
L-H 5900
H-L 5700
V/T UNMT:
HI<<LO +5%
LO<<HI +5%
THROTTLE:
LO- 10%
HI- 50%
NEP HVT:
NE1- 4000
NE2- 4500
NE3- 5000
NE4- 5500
NE5- 6100
NE6- 7200
NE7- 7800
NE8- 9000
NEP LVT:
NE1- 1000
NE2- 2000
NE3- 3000
NE4- 4000
NE5- 5000
NE6- 5500
NE7- 6000
NE8- 6500

 

OK.. your adjustment points and correction points don't match up. For instance, you have the LVT->HVT engagement point set to 5900, so why would you have a LVT adjustment at 6000 and 6500. Same with HVT's first adjustment point.. 7200. What about your 6100 point? If these are your actual settings--did you do them on a dyno? Many of them don't make sense.

For example: a -8% correction at 6000 on the low cam (when the engagement point of the high cam is actually 5900), followed by a 0% adjustment at 7100. It just doesn't make sense. If the F20C is anything like any other Honda motor, and I have to believe it is, the place it runs the most rich is the high end of the rpm range, so from 6500 up your corrections should be getting consistently leaner (more and more negative). Also, the -9%@7800 surrounded by 0%'s at 7200 and 9000 are similarly nonsensical.


Why not just make it easy and do this:

LVT:
Adjustment@RPM
Adjustment@RPM
...etc
HVT:
Adjustment@RPM
Adjustment@RPM
...etc

Don't split out the adjustment points and then the correction points. One implies the other.

Example:

LVT:
+1@1500
-1@2000
...

And do one for *every* correction point, including ones at 0%. Then we know where all your correction points are and what the corrections are.

Then,
LVT -> HVT: 5900
HVT -> LVT: 5700

Aside from that, the only pertinent figures are the VTEC Unmatch ones, and the lo/hi throttle map settings. Anything else should end up being default anyhow, or part of the routine for initializing the unit, spelled out in the manual.

Cheers,
Ben

 

dude, thanks but still missing:

WIDE THROTTLE:
LVT- 1000 RPM- ?
LVT- 2000 RPM- ?
LVT- 3000 RPM- ?
HVT- 4000 RPM- ?
HVT- 4500 RPM- ?
HVT- 5000 RPM- ?
HVT- 5500 RPM- ?
HVT- 6100 RPM- ?

I'm assuming the first 5 are all zeros and wouldn't matter anyways but the last 3 are potentially significant if other than zeros, thanks again.

What about the pics you promised us

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bgrubin
[B]OK..

 

Ben, also, the first out of range correction is always relevant because the line that connects to the first in range correction to it is relevant. Partial throttle VTEC mismatch can occur out of the expected range as well (ex. 6400 rpm, 3/4 throttle, VTi OFF but VTo ON). The V-AFC is going to switch lobes on you at the RPM you specified, however the ECU takes into account other things which can create large mismatch gaps at less than full throttle (so some of the seemingly way out of range numbers can prove relevant as well).

Based on the asking of key questions to some people that should

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RT
[B]

Ben keep in mind he's got +5% dialed in to the VTEC mismatch so the large neg numbers in that range aren't as drastic as the might appear.
It does seem weird though to have the corrections canceling out the mismatch numbers but maybe the tuner knows something I don't (four dimensional thinking?).

 

one: if I didn't post it. It's zero
two: I have no idea about all the settings looking funky. These are the settings that were dialed in by the shop (forgot the name) in Fl. Dyno 199hp stock 213 hp V-AFC. wish I could explain it better. I don't know my way around the V-AFC very well. this is the second car I've ever had it in and I've never tuned it myself. I can't really explain it but thats what I got. I'm gonna find out more now. I'm really curious cause what you say really makes sence. I'm gonna find out more and feel free to post more info of you want to aid my research.
I'm gonna go out with the ( . )( . )'s again tonight. I'll get some pics eventually. I promise. I'll try to get her home tonight (like I didn't last time or something).

 

I will say though after driving a stock one and then mine, mine has a much more linear powerband. I wish I had the dyno sheets to look for little peaks or dips. Mine pulls so smoothly, there are no perceptible dips in power or anything. I'll post more when i find out more. I'm just starting to understand this damn thing. Also, I have run a 13.87 at 102 so it seems this helped in that respect. I dunno what the deal is and now I'm damn curious

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RT
[B]Ben, also, the first out of range correction is always relevant because the line that connects to the first in range correction to it is relevant.

 

Ben, I hear ya and see your point, however the problem with setting your last correction points right at the change over points are that you can't move the change over points around without potentially dropping off the proverbial cliff. At a minimum you should extend the edges of the cliff by adding a repeat point out a ways since it won