Alternator Rectifier Replacement
Hey guys, I have the infamous dash flicker so I believe my rectifier is going bad. I have a remanufactured alternator that I bought on a whim because it was cheap. Instead of trusting the whole alternator, I might just pull the rectifier out and put in my existing alternator since its otherwise in good shape.
Question is, has anybody successfully replaced the rectifier without completely pulling the whole alternator from the car? Doesn't look possible, but figured it might be worth asking just in case. Not looking forward to the job if that's what's required.
Thanks!
Question is, has anybody successfully replaced the rectifier without completely pulling the whole alternator from the car? Doesn't look possible, but figured it might be worth asking just in case. Not looking forward to the job if that's what's required.
Thanks!
I'm going through the same situation right now as well, the remanufactured alternator is giving you the same problems or no?
I replaced mine with a aftermarket alternator as well and still have the dash lights flickering as well as my radio cutting out. Do you experience the vsa and abs light flicker as well?
And have you tested it with a multimeter yet?
Sorry for all the questions that didn't really help you much lol
I replaced mine with a aftermarket alternator as well and still have the dash lights flickering as well as my radio cutting out. Do you experience the vsa and abs light flicker as well?
And have you tested it with a multimeter yet?
Sorry for all the questions that didn't really help you much lol
I'm going through the same situation right now as well, the remanufactured alternator is giving you the same problems or no?
I replaced mine with a aftermarket alternator as well and still have the dash lights flickering as well as my radio cutting out. Do you experience the vsa and abs light flicker as well?
And have you tested it with a multimeter yet?
Sorry for all the questions that didn't really help you much lol
I replaced mine with a aftermarket alternator as well and still have the dash lights flickering as well as my radio cutting out. Do you experience the vsa and abs light flicker as well?
And have you tested it with a multimeter yet?
Sorry for all the questions that didn't really help you much lol
I have a harder time removing the electrical connections than actually bashing it. Like I said you can loosen the bolts on the water pump, if you don't like bashing. You'll barely lose much coolant doing it this way, I like to bash though so I just use my brass drift and hammer, some people use crowbars, but again, I like to bash.
I replaced mine in 15 minutes without having to even force the alternator out. Take off your stock air box (3 10mm bolts) and it'll make it a lot easier, then just loosening the belt and two bolts on the bracket! Good luck, looks like I gotta keep searching for my problem
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I did this a few months back due to dash flickering problems. You're right in assuming you have to take out the alternator. Getting it out is the easy part. As others have said, remove airbox, undo belt, undo bolts and slide it out. You may have to use use some a pry bar to apply some pressure.
The real bitch is getting the thing back in. Honestly, it took more time to get it back in than everything before it combined. At least it solved the flickering lights problem. Despite the last part being a pain in the butt, it really isn't THAT bad.
The real bitch is getting the thing back in. Honestly, it took more time to get it back in than everything before it combined. At least it solved the flickering lights problem. Despite the last part being a pain in the butt, it really isn't THAT bad.
Drew, removing the alt and getting it back in isn't bad at all. I use a breaker bar as a pry bar to pry it out, and then use the same method to push back the bushing that tightens up against the lower alternator mount. That gives you more freedom to drop the alternator back down in there. Text me or call if you need any help. I've never replaced the rectifier though.






