Hey all!

I have had a consistent problem with hot starts to the point I’m scared to turn my car off to get gas because I know I’ll have to wait 5 minutes till I can start it again lol.

Anyway... it’s a 2001 with 180k miles on it and no modifications. The battery was recently replaced when I purchased it 8 months ago. It has been jump started a couple times, so the health could be questioned.. but here is the issue.. if I drive the car, till normal operating temperature then turn it off... it will not crank or cranks too slow to start (low voltage).. it reads 11.7v when hot.. after sitting for a few minutes. The battery reads 12.1v and starts just fine.. I’d love to address the entire system (battery, starter and alternator ) but it’s simply not able to be done with my current situation in life.

If anybody has a specific solution to this, please chime in. I’m not mechanically illiterate, so I’ll understand whatever you throw out there as long as it’s correct.. I’ve also researched and was not able to find my exact situation/solution in the forums.

Any advice is is welcomed and appreciated! Thank you.

-Tony

 

Do you have a parasitic draw on the car?

I have one and I think it's my aftermarket stereo. Of the few times that I accidentally stall the car in traffic, if the radio was on, it wouldn't have enough juice to crank the motor.

But as soon as I turn off the stereo, it starts fine. (immediately after a warm/hot shut off)

 

Sounds like an alternator issue to me. Low charging. As you said you aren't able to address it now but hopefully soon you will be able to.

 

I would disagree with the parasitic draw.. Especially considering I can watch the voltage slowly increase as the cars sits after being turned off. I haven't tested for parasitic draw, but I experience no other symptoms of it.

I have not tested the alternator, I agree that after so many miles, it could certainly need a replacement. I've simply never experienced anything quite as strange as this particular problem. The alternator is an easy to replace item. I may bite the bullet and pull my tools out of the storage unit and swap in a new one.

Again, turn off the car at full operating temperature, and have to wait 3-5 minutes for the voltage to creep up enough to start it again.

This makes me wonder if the batter is impacted by the heat of the engine bay.. unlikely, it is car battery designed for the job at hand, But seems really odd. The battery is an AutoZone house brand (I cant remember the name) meaning, it isn't a Honda OEM battery. Perhaps that could cause it?

I know its an unusual problem. If anybody has any further recommendations or experiences the same, please chime in.

Thanks

 

After requiring 2 jump starts already, I'd suggest getting the battery replaced. Check your ground and cables to the alternator. I knew my battery was dying, getting weaker at cranking the engine. 3 months ago, I got stuck at a Costco gas station, lucky for me the attendant had a portable jump start and Costco had a new battery for me.

 

That stands out to me because I had to replace a cable on my winter Honda. I swear I go through batteries faster than most choosing to drive a Honda in the winter so I always like to replace them when I feel them start to fail even a bit. Getting stuck in the cold is a bit worse so that's half of it. Places in these parts test batteries for free. Got a charger for my old man that tests health and alternators as well that I'll borrow when it's questionable lol.

 

Don't just throw parts at it! Alternator and battery are easy to test.

 

I agree, and I’d never give anybody advice to throw parts, because you’re very right, but my logic is they’re probably nearly due for a refresh. 181k miles...

I had to jump start the car again two days ago. It wouldn’t even start at 12.2v as it had in the past. I’ll definitely get a new batter very soon as it never reads 12.5 anymore, and has been jump 6-8 times. I know one of the plates must be damaged.

 

Car Battery Tester - 12v 24v Car Auto Battery Load Tester on Cranking System and Charging System Scan Tool, TT Topdon AB101 100-2000 CCA Battery Tester Automotive for Cars/SUVs/Light Trucks

autozone can test batteries for free, but not sure if they can test the alternator.

In addition to the voltage you need to measure the cold cranking amps.

 

Update! For anybody who has a similar issue...

the battery I knew was good.. I had the alternator tested, and it turned out good too.. obviously that leaves the starter or witch craft lol.

It seems the starter was simply old and effected by heat. I replaced it, and she is good as new. Starts every time.

I want t to add however, if anybody needs to replace the starter, it’s not for the faint of heart or impatient. It really is a *simple* job.. but very cramped and frustrating. Near impossible to remove and personally. I would consider having somebody do it, cost depending of course.. I also noticed many warnings about breaking the knock sensor.. I honestly never could even find it. I simply kept the starter and everything away from the block.. though I didn’t see it, i obviously didn’t break it. I wish the same good fortune on anybody who try’s this job.

thanks for everybody’s input!