S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

anti-seize on OEM NGK spark plugs?

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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Default anti-seize on OEM NGK spark plugs?

I've read that NGK plugs come coated, and do not need additional anti-seize. Does this apply to OEM Honda s2k plugs #PFR7G-11S?

Thanks
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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you shouldnt have to put anti-seize on the plugs unless you planning on running them for 100,000+ miles, which I wouldnt recommand.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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no anti-seize.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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Gracias amigos, butt naked it is.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 10:28 PM
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It makes a difference if you take them out hot.
If there is some carbon build-up after a while, between the threads acting like loctite, it is soft when the engine is hot.

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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000maniac
you shouldnt have to put anti-seize on the plugs unless you planning on running them for 100,000+ miles, which I wouldnt recommand.
Aren't the plugs made to last 100K miles? Seems like the owners manual mentions changing them at 103K but I could be wrong.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by WarrenW
Originally Posted by s2000maniac' timestamp='1314830638' post='20932674
you shouldnt have to put anti-seize on the plugs unless you planning on running them for 100,000+ miles, which I wouldnt recommand.
Aren't the plugs made to last 100K miles? Seems like the owners manual mentions changing them at 103K but I could be wrong.
Service manual states 105k
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 06:53 AM
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Listen to Billman. They have Trivalent coating on them which is an anti seize. I didn't know this and put some of the goop on my Mazda MPV plugs - one popped out and took the valve cover threads with it 40K miles later since the torque with goop ends up being a false read. Wish NGK would write it on the damn box instead of keeping it a hidden pdf on their site.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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Topic
The use of anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads that have a “special shell
plating” (i.e. Trivalent coating).
Issue
Applying anti-seize to the treads of spark plugs that have a special metal plating
thus allowing the installer to mistakenly over-torque the spark plug in the cylinderhead.
Over-torque stretches the metal between the last thread and the seal
between the cylinder head and spark plug, causing a much higher probability that
the spark plug will either break during installation or upon removal.
Solution
For spark plugs with special metal plating; do not use anti-seize on the initial
installation. If a spark plug with special metal plating is removed and re-installed,
only then should anti-seize be used prior to “
re-installation”.
Additional Information
It is recommended to use spark plugs with the special plating on all aluminum
cylinder head applications to prevent damage to the cylinder head.
The shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from the main body of the spark
plug during removal thus preventing the bonding of the aluminum from the
cylinder head to the threads.
All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body.
The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is manufactured with special metal shell plating. All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or protection against bonding to the aluminum cylinder head.
FWIW:
This is the text from the NGK pdf.
Apparently this plating only works once.
So even NGK thinks it is ok to use anti-seize for the second install.

25Nm is not a lot.
With anti-seize and a torque wrench I doubt you would over-torque a sparkplug.

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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS
Topic
The use of anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads that have a “special shell
plating” (i.e. Trivalent coating).
Issue
Applying anti-seize to the treads of spark plugs that have a special metal plating
thus allowing the installer to mistakenly over-torque the spark plug in the cylinderhead.
Over-torque stretches the metal between the last thread and the seal
between the cylinder head and spark plug, causing a much higher probability that
the spark plug will either break during installation or upon removal.
Solution
For spark plugs with special metal plating; do not use anti-seize on the initial
installation. If a spark plug with special metal plating is removed and re-installed,
only then should anti-seize be used prior to “
re-installation”.
Additional Information
It is recommended to use spark plugs with the special plating on all aluminum
cylinder head applications to prevent damage to the cylinder head.
The shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from the main body of the spark
plug during removal thus preventing the bonding of the aluminum from the
cylinder head to the threads.
All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body.
The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is manufactured with special metal shell plating. All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or protection against bonding to the aluminum cylinder head.
FWIW:
This is the text from the NGK pdf.
Apparently this plating only works once.
So even NGK thinks it is ok to use anti-seize for the second install.

25Nm is not a lot.
With anti-seize and a torque wrench I doubt you would over-torque a sparkplug.

yeah I didn't use it on my new plug installation, but I would use it on them if I pull them out sometime down the road for inspection and re-install.

The oem factory plugs for most of our s2k's did not have trivalent coatings, that is a relatively new additon to the NGK plugs. Personally I think this whole Trivalent coating thing is a bit exaggerated, they talk about it breaking loose or breaking off if the plugs ever get removed. I'll follow their instructions but I don't believe an engine will get damaged due to a tiny dusting of anti-sieze at 18-20 ft lbs of torque, how much could the torque raing be exaggerated at that low level of torque setting, maybe 1 ft lb ?
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