S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Any DIY's for Spoon Rigid Collars?

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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 06:29 PM
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Default Any DIY's for Spoon Rigid Collars?

I plan on tackling the install for Spoon Rigid Collars on my AP2. Any DIY's around? Not entirely sure I know what I'm doing lol.

My general approach is to loosen all bolts on the subframe, but not take them completely out. Just enough to lower the subframe to clear the rigid collars. Then I will take one bolt out, put the collar in, and tighten the bolt again and repeat. Is this the correct way?
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 03:08 AM
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Yep it's better to only drop one bolt at a time, that way you keep the subframe aligned.
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 04:39 AM
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You are correct, except:

Wait until all collars are in place, then tighten all bolts evenly.

You should also unbolt the steering coupler. Be sure when you do so, the steering wheel is not allowed to rotate out of time or you will destroy the cable reel behind the steering wheel.
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Billman250
You are correct, except:

Wait until all collars are in place, then tighten all bolts evenly.

You should also unbolt the steering coupler. Be sure when you do so, the steering wheel is not allowed to rotate out of time or you will destroy the cable reel behind the steering wheel.
Silly question, but what exactly is the steering coupler?
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 02:55 AM
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It's the joint between the steering column (1) and steering shaft (3)

Like Billman said, turn the steering wheel until it locks so you keep your steering wheel timing, then decouple it.
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 04:42 PM
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And mark both ends of the steering joint before you disassamble, so you can be sure it goes back aligned (there is a cover you need to remove to get to the joint). Also lock the steering and don't let steering wheel turn while disconnected or you risk tearing the expensive clock spring air bag cable.


This works for front and rear:
Loosen the 4 corner bolts down ~3/4 inch. Then loosen and remove the 2 center bolts. Put in the collars for the center positions. Now remove one of the corner bolts, insert collar. Put bolt back in. Tighten back to same 3/4 inch drop. Repeat for each corner. Once all collars are in, tighten the 4 corner bolts a little at a time. Once all 4 are hand tight, thighten the center bolts. Now torque them all down.

You may find it easier to remove the rear wheels, but its not required.

For the rear you also need to remove the cover on the drivers side that is in front of the axle (forgot what it covers).

Be sure to use the copper lube from the kit. There are 2 collar sizes in the kit. Be sure they go in the right spots. Diagram in the instructions do a good job illustrating.

Lastly, be sure not to put them in upside down!
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 01:26 AM
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Just to be clear, you guys mean lock the wheel or turn the wheel all the way until it can't turn anymore?
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 03:04 AM
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The joint stated is not the steering coupler. The coupler is number 5 in the above pic.

And I never said turn the wheel until it locks.
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
Yep it's better to only drop one bolt at a time, that way you keep the subframe aligned.
Are you even familiar at all with the subject? Doing one bolt at a time is impossible and unnecessary. The collars put the subframe in a new rigid centered point of alignment, so there is nothing to keep alligned.

Take another look at your picture, disconnecting that joint has nothing to do with the subframe's ability to be lowered.
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 05:16 AM
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Sorry for incorrect information.
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