I did the conversion a few years ago. The only parts needed were the subframe and upper control arms. BTW there is a difference between bump steer and oversteer

 

Absolutely your choice.

For anyone else considering the TCD BSK:

I know of 2 TCD BSK failures...one the guy was using the track-car only pillow ball version on the street even though he'd been warned not to do so. And the other was a design defect that effected the earliest version...that version hasn't been in production since 2005 and TCD sent out replacement parts to everyone who purchased an early version.

 

Did they also pay the repair bill for the damage?

 

good information...thanks

 

very good info on here...
does TCD BSK rearsubs only for track use?
ive been told that the AP1 suffer the rear bump steer problem but also about a more oversteer issue too. the AP2 fixed this with a the new uprgaded full rear subframe and better tires in the rear...is this true?
im trying to understand if the subframe from the AP2 really made a difference or was it just rims and tires...

 

the subframe change allowed suspension geometry changes to dull the bumpsteer attribute in ap2's.

the different tires changed the snap oversteer issue and gave the car more understeer...along with the spring/dampener rate changes

 

THere is something that I do not understand, acording to the pdf, if you want highspeed oversteer decrease downforce on the rear and increase downforce on the rear? isnt the opposite??

 

???

 

It worked great for me. I love the way my car handles- very neutral, even running 225f 245r tires. I am running a UK spec alignment with almost zero toe in the rear. I have the Megan rear bumpsteer kit with helm joints which seem to quell the deflection that necessitated the + toe in the rear. (in other words the tires don't toe out nearly as much over bumps) Tire wear has greatly increased.

 

That was easy- eyeballed the set-up enough to drive it to the alignment shop and had them set it up.