Ok I will keep trying, broke 2 walmart brand flat heads and 1 craftman brand flat head, bought some craftsman chisels but they won't budge, also got a center punch (someone recommended), it's just staked real good in there.

 

I prefer to work with the wheel on, car on the ground. It is hard to get the right torque with the car raised, even with the parking brake on and in gear.

Grease the face of the nut, NOT the threds. WD40 is fine for the threds if you like.

 

This has proven on over 150 s2ks....

Dont buy new nuts, re-use the old ones...heres why:

They make a good indicator. On a factory nut that has never been touched, the stake mark will move from 12 oclock to 2 oclock. in other words, the nut will tighten about 60 degrees after being removed, face greased, and tighten PROPERLY. I dont even know if 220 is enough. But i know where it needs to be...I should do a how to...

 

I did mine at 225 ft lbs and it seemed to move the nut about an extra 2 hours using the clock analogy. I think that was likely enough, it seemed like setting the torque wrench to 250 ft lbs wouldn't have resulted in any more movement based on how it felt to me.

A how-to would be great on this Billman250 , on one of the posts I recall someone recommending to grease the threads in addition to the nut face, but I don't think that is correct, you only should grease the face of the nut. correct me if I'm wrong.

 

correct....face only.

 

took it to honda with the print out, I was watching from the outside all they did was unstake them and tighten them (they didn't take em off and grease them like the print out said)
The click is gone but I think they did it wrong without greasing it.

 

Buy a new/used hub assembly. I know someone who sells this for 70 locally on the site. PM if your interested.

 

Just took my AP1 with 61K to the dealer on Friday with the same issue. They removed the axle nuts and cleaned them of rust, then greased them and installed them back at 220lbs. Noise gone and only cost me 60 bucks.

 

Dealers are incompetent.

The torque is for a GREASED face of the nut.

If you dont, it was a waste of time and money.

 

To throw this out there, i have an 02 and 3rd owner, idk if its been done to mine, but i dont hear a tick at all... but i have a loud exhaust. Is there a way to check it? Just pull off and retorque to be sure? Its at 88k miles, should i take hub off to check for damage?

(Only rears an issue?)