Can a bad rear differential mount cause a noise during acceleration? I brought my car into honda because of a loud squeaking/grinding/clicking noise coming from my left rear wheel... the mechanic thought the hub and bearing went bad so he replaced those parts but that didnt fix the problem. Now he's saying that he needs to replace the rear differential mount because it's leaking fluid and he thinks replacing that should fix the problem. I really don't see how a bad mount can cause all this noise... Has anybody experienced this problem before?

this is the part number # he gave me since I'll be doing the work myself.
Part number 50740-S2A-023
Part: RUBBER ASSY., L. DIFFERENTIAL MOUNTING

 

Bump buddy, did you ever solve this problem?

 

the diff mounts leak?? since when? as far as i know there made of rubber only. when i did a diff swap i saw nothing filled with fluid

 

The diff and engine mounts are filled with fluid.

You can replace them easily, or gut them and fill them with window-weld/polyurethane liquid.

 

I need to replace one on the left. Is it as straightforward to replace as it looks? 4 bolts for the mounting bracket, and one nut in the center? Support the diff with a jack?

is it worth doing the other side at the same time?

cheers

 

I would do both. Using window weld or urethane wouldn't be a good idea since the motor mount is ripped, it may cause other mounts to go prematurely or cause more problems $$$.it may work on a good condition mount however

 

False. Window weld works great. I have both main mounts filled. They've been that way for +80k miles. The rears take the beating, the fronts just hold it up. The poly has some flex to it as well. The stock mounts suck if you do any sort of hard launches.

@00derek: You either have to unbolt the diff, or drop the rear swaybar to get enough clearance of the diff studs. Other than that it's just unbolt and replace.

 

Is that what he is referring to? I guess so by saying left side. I wouldn't use that stuff though for any load bearing mount. The other thing is how would you make sure the mounts are aligned properly after Gutting them.

 

Didn't notice you said engine mount. We're talking about the diff mounts. Even so, I wouldn't be afraid to use it if the bolts would stay put. People run much harder compounds on aftermarket mounts.

On the diff mounts, there are two pieces of webbing that you leave in that keep everything alined. Window weld is pretty flexible. I'd say more so than innovative mounts. It's only 55a on the hardness scale. I don't notice any extra noise or harshness. It does feel more solid in the pedal though. I took a bunch of pictures for a write-up but never made it.

 

Yes, I saw a fairly good description of the task on another forum (http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=21960); I'm pretty confident I can tackle this myself, but one question I have not been able to find the answer to is does the propeller shaft-to-diff connection have enough vertical freedom to allow the diff to be lowered without disconnecting the prop? I'm guessing it does because the diff can only drop by one inch (if the horizontal stiffener is not removed), and no-one is talking about it.

Nevertheless, I don't want to start this myself if I'm not sure, so please, anybody who has done this, put my mind at rest. Can I drop the diff without disconnecting the prop?