Bent valve?
First thing I would do is check for tight valves on cylinder 3.
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
Originally Posted by SmokeyGatto' timestamp='1456344232' post='23890032
The internet is filled with lies. pouring denatured alcohol in the tank will boost octane, etc, etc.

But you aren't actually boosting anything, your just increasing the numerical OCT rating. High OCT fuel is less volition then Low OCT and that's why its used in high boost/high compression engines because it better suppresses detonation. Alcohol is much less volatile then gasoline. Spiking your pump gas with it would technically raise the OCT in the sense that it will raise the threshold in which the fuel will combust.
in the water meth tank not, the gas tank

denatured vs boost juice, denatured will make more hp, though pouring it in the tank is asking to wash rings, or have a fire if you dont 50/50 it
well, since bisi is out, call billman or jordan and beg them to ship you a motor. I'm all the way over in NYC, Bisi is the only highend honda tuner that I know of out there. Everyone else seems to be a dropshipper. Nothing against gotuning, evasive, or rockstar, but I wouldnt trust my car with any of them. As far as I know, as a NY'r, I dont think they do maintiance as much as bolton install/internet sales.
First thing I would do is check for tight valves on cylinder 3.
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
as far as my parameters, i did everything to your spec EXCEPT i did pull the fuse.... due to reading a DIY on here....
and i may have not held the throttle WO.... maybe i should retest today.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1456345134' post='23890053
[quote name='SmokeyGatto' timestamp='1456344232' post='23890032']
The internet is filled with lies. pouring denatured alcohol in the tank will boost octane, etc, etc.
The internet is filled with lies. pouring denatured alcohol in the tank will boost octane, etc, etc.

But you aren't actually boosting anything, your just increasing the numerical OCT rating. High OCT fuel is less volition then Low OCT and that's why its used in high boost/high compression engines because it better suppresses detonation. Alcohol is much less volatile then gasoline. Spiking your pump gas with it would technically raise the OCT in the sense that it will raise the threshold in which the fuel will combust.
though pouring it in the tank is asking to wash rings, or have a fire if you dont 50/50 it
[/quote]
The irony of your original post is priceless. Your like your own worst enemy on internet hearsay
Originally Posted by Billman250' timestamp='1456410100' post='23890659
First thing I would do is check for tight valves on cylinder 3.
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
as far as my parameters, i did everything to your spec EXCEPT i did pull the fuse.... due to reading a DIY on here....
and i may have not held the throttle WO.... maybe i should retest today.
Originally Posted by Cevin' timestamp='1456416943' post='23890794
[quote name='Billman250' timestamp='1456410100' post='23890659']
First thing I would do is check for tight valves on cylinder 3.
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
First thing I would do is check for tight valves on cylinder 3.
If that pans out fine, then a leakdown test will pinpoint the leak source. Leakdown numbers won't help you, but by following the audio signal of the leak, you can rule out the head and valves with certainty.
If the leak is cylinder/ring related, no head job can fix it.
All in all your numbers are not alarming. Yes cylinder 3 is low. Not sure how the shop came up with those numbers, they follow no logic with the original test or yours.
Were you happy with the original comp numbers at purchase?
Parameter for optimal numbers:
-engine warm, not red hot
-comp test done within 10 min of shutdown
-all spark plugs out
Injectors unplugged (do not pull fuel pump fuse, the injectors will still pulse, and will spray fuel until pressure subsides)
-hold throttle WOT
Did your test parameters vary much from above?
as far as my parameters, i did everything to your spec EXCEPT i did pull the fuse.... due to reading a DIY on here....
and i may have not held the throttle WO.... maybe i should retest today.
[/quote]
thanks, my last shop said they could hear that it was coming from the valves. so im going to get it done, ill update this thread in a week when i receive it back!
Since your 1st test/shop, and then your own self test, resulted in low compression in Cyl3, I'd def not get a complete head rebuild done at shop 3 (low Cyl4).
Originally Posted by Cevin' timestamp='1456425924' post='23890971
thanks, my last shop said they could hear that it was coming from the valves. so im going to get it done, ill update this thread in a week when i receive it back!
Since your 1st test/shop, and then your own self test, resulted in low compression in Cyl3, I'd def not get a complete head rebuild done at shop 3 (low Cyl4).
well the first shop is in San Fransisco, so that's a no.
and the third shop i do trust to do the work, but it is weird that they found a ton of leakdown, but the head is what needs to be fixed either way right?
ill be putting in all new super tech stuff so i doubt ill have issues down the road from the valve train











