zbrewha863

Couldn't find any concrete info on this. Long story short, I'm getting a brand new engine dropped into my car, and I want to know the best oil to run (without additives), since the dealership likely doesn't have the special break-in oil that Honda throws in the engines.

I know I need petroleum-based (not synthetic) until the rings seat, but I don't know what to go with. I've seen one post on here where a guy said that he heard that Valvloline Max-Life was the best b/c of a high moly count or something, but I don't know if that's the case. Suggestions?

INTJ

redline makes a break in oil

the old engine builders I know run a straight wt for whatever temp it is, typ 30wt

zbrewha863

Sweet, thanks for the info.

I totally forgot about the straight weight -- I have 4-5 quarts of 50wt Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil sitting around ... too bad it's too heavy.

SpitfireS

Any true dino 10W (or 5W)-30 oil will do.
There is no special break-in oil.
The moly found in first-oil-UOA's is assembly lube.

Having a high moly oil being break-in oil is a contradiction.
Moly is an anti wear additive.
Break-in oil is supposed to cause "wear".

Sobe_Death

Do NOT under any circumstances use any "high mileage" oil when breaking in an engine. The oil you are supposed to use is a non-detergent type, usually having the oil weight followed by ND. Shell makes some, so does Redline. Use the recommended weight for your engine but use the ND version for the initial break in period. After that, you may use your regular oil.

Sarek

my tuner recommended Torco TBO to break in my Lasker block. He uses it in his race motors. I don't know the specifics but that is another option. .

zbrewha863

Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll check out the Torco TBO and the Redline.

2007 Zx-10

just use a regular dino oil like Valvoline and change it frequently (at least twice) during the first 5k miles, in order to flush particulate out of the engine, then switch to full synthetic

zbrewha863

Cool. Just ordered 10 quarts of Valvoline VR1 (my favorite) from JEGS, so I should be good to go.

INDYMAC

I think I would hold off on the racing oils. They tend to be high on AW additives (ZDDP) and low on detergents/dispersants. Just buy some 10W-30 conventional SM/GF-4 engine oil and change it a couple of times before 5K miles. You can change the filters too, but probably isn't necessary.

The high mileage oils are synthetic blends with seal swellers. Not a good choice for break-in IMO.