Don't hate, and it's Tinypic (Lilttlepic) lol

 

If you follow the honda manual, you will NEVER get to the bottom of this code...trust me. The book is wrong, right from the start.

So anyone have a P1457 that they could never fix?

 

DAMMIT!

 

thanks for the continued effort to train and educate us S2000 owners. you have helped me ...

 

Billman for pres...I have so much to learn!!!

 

To start off, make a tester with two wires coming off of it, that can plug into the bypass valve. I used a cam sensor connector. it is the same for the cam sensors and the bypass valve. It will also fit the evap purge valve and it will fit the evap canister shut valve. so all three valves in the system can be tested with one test tool. I will try to get a pic of it also.

Time to test...

-evap bypass solonoid/valve in GREEN box
-evap purge solonoid/valve (up by the engine, located straight down from the IAC valve on the intake manifold)
-evap canister shut solonoid/valve (mounted right to the canister by the dif, with a brownish connector)

-use this test harness to add power and ground to all 3 evap solonoids. Purge, bypass, and canister shut. Positive and negative is not important. you should hear a nice click when powered, and a another click when disconected from power. on this car here, the evap bypass solonoid was shorted out. When i tried to add power and ground, it would break the circuit breaker in my power probe. The other two solonoids were ok.

Lastly, with the car off and on jack stands, disconnect the hose on the two way valve, where i have marked the YELLOW box. connect a hose here, and simply add vaccuum. The two way valve, while bolted to the bypass valve, should hold vaccuum.

If you dont have a vaccuum pump(and this is where the boys get separated from the men) you can suck on the hose to make vaccuum, and cap it with your tongue it should hold your tongue to the hose. if you cannot build vaccuum and can feel it just keeps pulling air, the two way valve is bad. On this car here, the valve did not hold vaccum.

I'll work on more pics...

 

Hey Billman,

I had this code come up yesterday. I don't have the tools or more to the point the expertise to make the testers you are describing here. How hard is it to replace these items? And what do they call them or what Honda part number are they? I did some searching is this the items you are talking about http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SOLENOID+VALVE

Any input would really help out.

Thanks.

Kevin

 

FWIW mlc it's not a critical fault. I usually clear mine about once a year and it leaves me alone after that. Now if it keeps coming back of course you need to change it.

The parts are in this diagram.PARTS

 

Hey Dustin,

Hope all is well.

I asked the person at Advanced Auto to clear the code and they wouldn't. Is there an easy way to clear it?

Thanks.
Kevin

 

Just a quick question, what part number needs to be replaced to fix the stupid warped filler neck threads?

Is it: 17660-S2A-A31?