MR.T

i just made a video. http://youtu.be/Nu0qGT8EztM

it basically tells how to safely/temporarily disconnect the evap system from the motor, for means of diagnostics.

i was crawling under the car looking at how the fuel tank ties into the evap canister, so i could tell you how to route that to open air (been awhile since i did the evap repair), but I couldn't tell which tube ran directly off the tank. then i thought about it a bit and wanted to kick myself....just pull the gas cap off! duh, i'm such an idiot. pulling the gas cap off will tell you if your evap canister is clogged/saturated and is having an affect on fuel pump performance, thus causing hard stops/multi cyl misfires. you will throw a p1456 if you leave the cap off long enough.

like i said before, your p1399 and hard starts are probably not evap related, but those are a couple of easy test to find out. once you do these tests the results should be almost immediate. probably wouldn't hurt to do an ecm reset/idle relearn before you start the car back up.

if you find that there is no improvement in performance and it still doesn't start after fill-ups, i'd still knock out those evap codes if they're the ones that appeared first.

bberry

i followed your diagnostic and it worked great thank you for this

DrakeValle

Billman, I've read through your how to and found it very helpful. I am getting the P1457 code, and wanting to diagnose it. I have a question about the method of testing the valves..

I don't have a spare cam sensor connector.. so is there another easy way to setup a tester? Also what method/source of power should I use to test the valves? Obviously one wire will run to a ground (bare metal/ground bolt?).. and then the other goes to a source of power?

I'm usually pretty comfortable working on my car, but haven't messed with much electrical.. I would just rather test everything, and only buying what I need rather than replacing everything one by one in hopes of fixing the code.

Thanks for always providing so much information for our community.. sometimes dummies like me just need a little more explaining

DrakeValle

Alright, got time to run through this thread and tested the system. All 4 tests in this thread passed for me. Received an audible click off and off for all valves/solenoids.

Also, the two way valve held pressure with the suck/tongue method.

I've also done the WD40 on the connectors as I had read in another thread. Not really sure how to proceed at this point. I visually inspected all the hoses around the valve assembly as did not find any major cracks or wear. I know with an evap system, visual inspection is probably not sufficient though.

Couple other notes, I have a slightly rough idle and sometimes my rpms drop below idle when stopping at a light. The RPM drop is not a consistent thing. Rough idle is consistent though.

MR.T

This is the point where you have to start just throwing parts at it...sadly. Luckily I've already done some research. Everyone that didn't have problems with the solenoids, bypass valves, etc resolved the issue by replacing the evap canister along with the canister closed valve (ccv), which is attached to the evap canister. The evap canister will come with the o-ring required for the (ccv). Don't ask me why the canister goes bad. I'm pretty sure that it's a huge conspiracy that all of the car dealers are in on, haha.

When I did my suck/blow test, I did each hose in the assembly that could be removed. If you didn't go that far with it, it still may be something to look at before dropping 300$+ dollars.


When you're done with the fix, do an idle relearn, and fill the gas tank to 1/2-3/4's full. It will take 2 cycles for the evap monitors to complete before you know you're good. If you have an obd2 tool you'll be able to see when the monitors satisfy.

MR.T

Also, I highly doubt that there is any connection between your evap codes and rough idle. It sounds like you have the infamous "s2000 shudder" or stumble. I have it too. I had it before and after I resolved my evap codes.

If you had a cracked, split or disconnected hose, cracked evap canister, stuck open bypass, etc... then yeah, it would essentially be a vacuum leak, and may result in some funny idle, but you've already crossed those T's.

DrakeValle

Nothings to say there isn't still a small cut in a hose somewhere that I wasn't able to visually see. I did not drop the canister all the way out.. so it's possible that there is a crack on the top.. I'll start with checking that next.

There's also so many damn hoses around there that I may have missed one..

solitarycheese

I've gotten this code two or three times over the past year, but only after it rains or a car wash. When I clear it, it goes off and stays off. Does that help narrow down the cause?

RWDlover

I am trying to find where the hesitation at low rpm and low engine load comes from, and i suspect the tank evaporation system. I don't have any fault codes, like most of the people who have this hesitation, but i would like to ask Billman, have you found the hesitation to be related with the malfunction of any of these 2 way valves and solenoids without having an error code?

rockstar143

@Billman250
Hey Bill, long time and yes, thread revival. Thanks for always taking the time to help the enthusiasts out.

• I have had a strong gas smell for a while now...especially after a long highway drive or super hot weather...
• I could swear I heard a sloshing sound of liquid coming from the rear the other day...
• I'm getting a code P0497
• I had an FIPK AEM intake for a few years and recently reverted to OEM intake and all the associated vacuum lines (might not have had an effect but figured I'd mention).

Do that combination of circumstances point you to a particular part I should replace? I've been reading all related threads and they seem to point me at a multitude of valves and vents near the canister.
Was just wondering if you could diagnose with some more details listed.

Thanks in advance,
Jeremy