Ok, so today I believe my car had its first brake fluid change. At least the first since I owned it (since 39000miles) currently has 57800. I used ATE Super Blue and also put some stainless brake lines on. Now after doing this fluid change today the brakes don't feel quite as firm as they used to and not as firm as I was expecting for having stainless lines.

I've bled the brakes at least 5-6 times and no air comes out any longer. I'm running low on the super blue, little less then .5 qt left. And am wondering if this is how they should feel. They feel ever so slightly spongy up top and then about 1/4 travel they really tighten up.

Also when I pump the brakes now it makes a psst sound after each depression.

Can anybody help me or give me advice. I seriously bled these brakes at least 5 times in the right order FL, FR, RR, RL. I don't know what it is or if maybe it is how it should be?

 

You could almost do a complete bleed with 1/2 qt. left.

"HOW" did you do the bleed? (2 person, vacuum bleed, pressure bleed?)

 

It was a two person. And I know I could probably do a complete bleed with 1/2 qt. but I've already gone through 1.5 soo...

I guess somebody has an idea that I could have gotten air stuck in the ABS unit (thats where it sound like the psst is coming from) and that I need to do a vacuum bleed to get that out. Any ideas? All help is truely greatly apprieciated.

I have done some 100+ - 20 tests and the brakes feel good and ABS does engage. They are just a little spongy on the top but no air blubbles come out with a normal "PUMP!" "OPEN!" "CLOSE!" bleeding

 

Hmmm .................. that should go ................
OPEN, PUMP, CLOSE, LIFT UP ON THE PEDAL, OPEN, PUMP, CLOSE, LIFT, ETC.

OR ..............

PUMP, OPEN, (wait till pedal is on floor) CLOSE, LIFT, ETC.

I find that vacuum bleeding doesn't work that well for me as air gets in between the threads of the bleed screw.

You don't have an excessively long run of steel lines, do you?

 

You should buy more fluid and have the system power bled. This method can get the most stubborn air pocket out of any ABS system.

 

Well it was Pump, Open (wait till pedal is on floor), Close...I just left that part off, we did also try Open, Pedal to floor, Close, Lift as well for one of the bleedings.

how much would a power bleed cost?

edit* Ohh, and no the steel lines are the Techna-Fit from King Motorsports...They are actually a bit short in places

 

You should be able to get it done at a reputable brake shop for 50-75 bucks with you providing the fluid. Just make sure they empty to bleeder before putting in your fluid.

.....and don't let them sell you anything else...

 

Ok...cool. Does anybody else have any input. Is this what I need...I just don't want to go spend the money and find out it was not necessary. Is my remaining 1/2 qt. enough for them to do it?

 

Was the car more or less level when you bled the brakes? It looks like you did the bleeding correctly (as long as you always kept brake fluid level in the reservoir high enough so you didn't suck air in at the bottom). Something else is going on here. I doubt a power bleed will change anything.

 

Isn't the proper order: RR, LR, RF, LF? Aren't you supposed to work from the furthest brake from the master, closer to it?

On more tip is to tap the caliper with a rubber mallet to release any air bubbles.