First things first, the idea is from LHT, but so far nobody tried it? Kudos to LHT:


You need a Bleed Bucket, preferred with a extension. Some 8 mm inner diameter clear hose and a T-connector. Bleeding points are the Hose at the idle control valve and at the heater tube at the firewall. Leave the bleeder nipple at the Cylinder head closed. Set it up like this:






Fill it up with coolant of you preferred choice and mixture, start the car, dial the heat to "Max", leave the heater fan "off" because this will only act as coooler. We want the car to get hot soon.
No the magic happens, all air bubbles come out and you just sit there and watch them...
You could speed up things by pressing on the upper radiator hose or let the car run with 2500 rpm from time to time.



Let the car run untill the cooler fan started several times and no more air bubbles are visible. Check the temperature of the Heating in the cabin, fan and heat set to "Max":




And here in the other meassurment system:




No more air bubbles? Done. Shut the car of. You should end up with this:





You clearly see that the Coolant is on the same level in the tubes and the bucket and there are no more air bubbles. Now you can open up the bleeder valve at the cylinder head briefly to be 100% sure that even the last tiny amount of air wich maybe is trapped there can escape. Let everything cool down. Remove the Bucket, the tube form the Heater line at the firewall, and re-connect the hose at the idle controll valve. Use a "Hose pincher" at the hose when you re-connect it to avoid loss of coolant and air coming back into the system. It will be only a tiny amount, but nevertheless....

A word of warning: This can be a bit messy. As long as there is Coolant in the Bucket, it is the highest point and coolant will flow out if you pull the vinly tubes until the fluid level in the system has equalized. Work along and pinch the hoses. Suck coolant from the Bucket with a syringe to lower the level gradually. You will find a way. And yes, i have this bright ideas after i have done a mess...

It was the first time i tried it. Maybe there are improvments possible.

 

Nice idea, the ol' spill free funnel has a plunger that you stick down the snout, keeps the coolant in the funnel when you're done purgin', then you can just empty that into your overflow tank.

 

This does not seem like the easy way. Billman method works, so does squeezing the air out of the bleeder port a couple of times (you never need to touch that port on the firewall either), then closing it and using the Lisle funnel just as it is (let er run until no more bubbles and very hot heat). No mess, no tubes running all over. Have bled many times using one or the other of those two ways and it has always been super easy. I use the Lisle funnel even if just doing the regular billman method anyways. Keeps it full and cuts way down on the mess and like mentioned, stick the plunger in after and then dump excess back into a container

 

The hoses are cut and installed in maybe 3 Minutes. That is not much work.
As i have watched a lot (!) of bubbles coming out of the tube at the firewall, i will stick to this method. I never understand why everybody recommends to leave the port at the firewall alone and dont touch it. It´s a bleeding point and it sits higher as the Bleeding valve at the Cylinder head. The only thing i will change next time is the final step.

 

I have never taken that cover off that other bleeder and never had issues either. And if you use the lisle or other bleed funnel that becomes the highest point in the cooling system. The air will eventually work its way out of that funnel. I did it once on this car without even touching the bleeders at all. Just used the Lisle funnel, let it run and monitored it. It did take longer than using the Billman method but it bled perfectly and produced air so hot you could not hold your hand in front of the vent. I still prefer to use Billmans method and just use the funnel. The funnel at minimum keeps the mess down of filling and keeps the system full when bleeding. But there are plenty of ways to skin a cat

 

How's the heater temp, after your purge?

Thanks!

 

Dont get me wrong, but i simply have a hard time to belive that air wich is trapped at the highest point in the cooling system (The heater core and heater Tube at the Firewall) will find it´s way to the other end of the cooling system at the front of the car (The cooler) downwards (!!) to the only point where it could escape when you drive the car regualry, wich is the Radiator cap / overflow Tank. Adding to this, there was a report about the heating system in german Oldtimer car Magazine. Modern cars / Youngtimers have some sort of Plastic Corkscrew inserts in the tubes of the heater core. This is meant to slow down the coolant flow, making the heater more efficient, but also harder to bleed. So, why did the Honda engineers think it was neccessary to ad the Bleeder Nipple at the heater tube at the firewall? Is there some thing i am missing or dont undertsand?
I will continue to use my method, simply put a clear hose on the bleeding point at the firewall and actully watch how a lot of air bubbles flow out. Peace of mind for 3 Minutes of work.

But yes, there are many ways to skin a cat! "A jump is like a leap" as we say in Bavaria, roughly tranlsated.

 

Does your heater run hotter, now?

Thanks!

 

Lets see. I had the car idling in the garage with the Radiator cap on. Testing for leaks with the system pressurized. I take the meassurments after the cooler fan was running for the second time.
Ambient temp, fairly cold, we had snow last night. 8° C / 46°F



Upper Hose: 79.5 °C / 175°F


Upper hose to the heater, at the clutch master: 78.3°C / 173 °F




Settings of the heating:




Upper air vent left of the steering wheel 72,6 °C / 163 °F





Good enough? I think so.

 

Nice write up and thanks for sharing!
Das ist wunderbar!