Blown diff/axle?
2000 S2k, 125k miles, from what it looked like, on a stock axle
A few days ago when I turned on my car after overnight and started driving away, I heard light clunking which got louder with higher RPMs, coming from the rear, my friend said mostly the left side. Nothing felt physically wrong when driving. After 2 days, the clunking got louder. It would happen, both accelerating and coming to a stop. I would hear it in neutral but when I was rolling to a stop as well. When I put it into second or third gear when driving the car suddenly vibrated and my car was clunking very heavily when rolling in gear. Had my car taken home but was pushed/pulled. There were absolutely no clunking sounds when out of gear. Thought it was a blown axle but when I replaced the axle, the clunking was still there. This happens in every gear and in reverse, BUT i am still able to drive my car in gear but very heavy clunking and vibration. What could this be? Thanks a bunch
A few days ago when I turned on my car after overnight and started driving away, I heard light clunking which got louder with higher RPMs, coming from the rear, my friend said mostly the left side. Nothing felt physically wrong when driving. After 2 days, the clunking got louder. It would happen, both accelerating and coming to a stop. I would hear it in neutral but when I was rolling to a stop as well. When I put it into second or third gear when driving the car suddenly vibrated and my car was clunking very heavily when rolling in gear. Had my car taken home but was pushed/pulled. There were absolutely no clunking sounds when out of gear. Thought it was a blown axle but when I replaced the axle, the clunking was still there. This happens in every gear and in reverse, BUT i am still able to drive my car in gear but very heavy clunking and vibration. What could this be? Thanks a bunch
Sounds like the diff to me. Typically the ring and pinion gear teeth sheer off as the typical failure on ap1 diffs because the end caps on the carrier bearing flex over hard use and this pulls the ring and pinion gear out of alignment and then they sheer. The end caps on the ap2 diff are beefier. If you have a tooth sheered off, its possible the diff could still be functional but would cause some noises. Ive blown 2 ap1 diffs and both essentially gave me little/no warning before they just let go completely.
Have you drained the diff oil to look for gear/metal chunks? Be first on my list before replacing anything.
If its clearly coming from a particular side, then you have a bearing/hub and brake system to inspect.
Have you drained the diff oil to look for gear/metal chunks? Be first on my list before replacing anything.
If its clearly coming from a particular side, then you have a bearing/hub and brake system to inspect.
Sounds like the diff to me. Typically the ring and pinion gear teeth sheer off as the typical failure on ap1 diffs because the end caps on the carrier bearing flex over hard use and this pulls the ring and pinion gear out of alignment and then they sheer. The end caps on the ap2 diff are beefier. If you have a tooth sheered off, its possible the diff could still be functional but would cause some noises. Ive blown 2 ap1 diffs and both essentially gave me little/no warning before they just let go completely.
Have you drained the diff oil to look for gear/metal chunks? Be first on my list before replacing anything.
If its clearly coming from a particular side, then you have a bearing/hub and brake system to inspect.
Have you drained the diff oil to look for gear/metal chunks? Be first on my list before replacing anything.
If its clearly coming from a particular side, then you have a bearing/hub and brake system to inspect.
Secondly, if it is the diff, should I replace with AP2 diff?
Yes, thats exactly what id do, because its the easiest and its free other then diff fluid. Likely diff though since it only makes noise when in gear. bearing/brake component issue would make noise all the time, if your test was solid. Something to double check though. If you do find chunks in the diff, then yes start shopping for a good lower mile ap2 diff if you can find one, if not you will have to go with another ap1. If you do go with an ap2 diff you will need to swap the driveline input shaft flange from your ap1 diff to ap2 because the bolts are a different size, and wont mate up to your driveline otherwise.
Yes, thats exactly what id do, because its the easiest and its free other then diff fluid. Likely diff though since it only makes noise when in gear. bearing/brake component issue would make noise all the time, if your test was solid. Something to double check though. If you do find chunks in the diff, then yes start shopping for a good lower mile ap2 diff if you can find one, if not you will have to go with another ap1. If you do go with an ap2 diff you will need to swap the driveline input shaft flange from your ap1 diff to ap2 because the bolts are a different size, and wont mate up to your driveline otherwise.
Trending Topics
Don't rule out the prop shaft. I had one go bad and the car was able to move with loud clunks. You can compare yours to this pretty much:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SFn...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SFn...ature=youtu.be
Yes, thats exactly what id do, because its the easiest and its free other then diff fluid. Likely diff though since it only makes noise when in gear. bearing/brake component issue would make noise all the time, if your test was solid. Something to double check though. If you do find chunks in the diff, then yes start shopping for a good lower mile ap2 diff if you can find one, if not you will have to go with another ap1. If you do go with an ap2 diff you will need to swap the driveline input shaft flange from your ap1 diff to ap2 because the bolts are a different size, and wont mate up to your driveline otherwise.









