S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Blown motor?

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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #1  
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Default Blown motor?

quick info on my car:
2002 with 66k miles
only mods on the motor are a k&n FIPK, buddy club header, 70mm test pipe, greddy Ti-C single


So on thanksgiving I went out with my brother for a little cruise. No miss shifts and no over-rev's. Hell that day I didnt even redline, i short shifted at 8-8.5k rpms. I got on it and hit ~115mph then let off because I noticed my CEL was flashing. The only codes that came up were for 0420 for my test pipe and a 1399 unknown misfire code. My car sounds like shit. It pulls fine when I drove it home but it sounds like a rod knock but from the top of the motor. Yes I have oil in the car it is full and just changed like a week ago. I check my oil daily kinda obsessive compulsive about that. I did some searching on here and found info about MY00 to early MY02's having bad oil jets. My motor falls within those with the old oil jets. The knocking noise that my motor is making sounds really really bad at idle. When rev it the knocking speeds up as the rpms get higher. But the noise goes away when holding it at certain rpms. I'm expecting scored cylinder walls from what I have read here on the site. Where should I begin to make sure that this is the issue? And if my motor is done for....what will it take to put a f22 in there? Got my car in the garage for the season and ready to tear this thing apart and get it back bigger and better for spring I just need help from my fellow s2ki members on this one.

Edit: forgot to mention i pulled my spark plugs and the one that came out of cylinder #1 had what looked like some oil on the threads and was blacker than night. the other 3 looked perfectly normal.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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Drop the oil pan and check for bearing particles. Pull the rod caps off of #2, #3, and #4 rods and check the bearing conditions. #1 is a pain to get to because of the oil pump. If nothing jumps out after looking that hose, pull the head. If there's still nothing obvious, you will have to pull the motor and check the main bearings.

The F22 is a direct bolt-in replacement. I just did this swap on my street car. You want an 04 or 05 motor, though so you don't have to deal with the drive-by-wire stuff. On my 05 motor, I had to remove a clip that holds the fuel supply line to the fuel rail. That's the only mod I had to make.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:06 PM
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I've also heard that the belt tensioner makes a very loud ticking noise...I'm not sure if its true though
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:09 PM
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well i saw motors on here going for around 2000......good luck
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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Hope its something other than a new motor mate....
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 12:04 AM
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Change the oil filter and cut the old one open. Its its full of metal its most likely bearings.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 10:43 AM
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A guy quoted me roughly 2500 for a f22 long block. Debating whether i should jump on it or not. Will the f22 bolt right up to my02 f20 tranny?
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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Nevermind that last question, just found my answer about the tranny bolting right up. does 2500 for a f22 out of an 05 sound right?
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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Is it built? If not, sounds a bit too much for just a block...

Knock at the top could be a valve adjustment gone loose, easy enough to check.

While you're there, check all valve retainers real close. On AP1 they seem to be needing replacement with AP2 ones, if the car is being redlined and stuff. Check them, easy enough.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 09:50 AM
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everything up top in the valve train looked perfectly fine. and the price was for a full f22 longblock motor with header, intake mani, all sensors in place, etc etc
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