I was bleeding my brakes this evening and managed to strip one of my speed bleeders. I managed to get it out and replace it with one of the OEM bleeder screws that I had kept. Prior to this I had had some issues with the speed bleeders leaking (which led to the over-tightening which precipitated the stripping). So...


Anyone have any experience with the power bleeder systems?
http://www.apexperformance.net/motive_prod...ake_bleeder.htm for example.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by pellisS2k
[B]I was bleeding my brakes this evening and managed to strip one of my speed bleeders.

 

I too would be interested in hearing reports -- good or bad -- since I'd planned to install them also.

 

The only issues that I know of with speed bleeders are: 1) once installed you cannot use a pressure bleeder so you have to inform anyone that works on your brakes, and 2) If the sealant around the threads on the internal valve units gets excessively worn or damaged it can allow some air to be pulled past (can also happen with the external valve if not seated well and loosened too far).

These are a great invention and I recommend the use.. they allow a bleed by one person and are handy at the track (be sure to pour the old fluid in the oil recycle barrel). I do try to use two people when possible since my modified calipers don't seam to seal around the threads as well as some.

Obviously you must be careful with those made of softer materials (speedbleeder brand) but that is not different that most brake parts that use copper to facilitate a seal. Just use the proper tools and be careful not to use a lot of torque. If you are ham fisted use the Earls brand that are not soft.

These are good devices that rarely leak in my experience. Do use them but pay attention to what you are doing.

 

I used Speed Bleeders in a couple of my cars, an E-Type Jaguar and a Porsche 944S2. Neither set leaked, but I can't say that I was all that impressed. On the Porsche the pedal was spongy unless and until I did a "positive pressure" bleed, which wouldn't have required the Speed Bleeders in the first place. On the Jaguar, well, the braking system on those cars weren't all that firm to begin with, so I probably wouldn't have noticed a spongy pedal My recommendation would be to buy a positive pressure bleed system ($40-125US) and stick with the stock bleeders.

 

This is a little off topic (fluids) but it's an interesting paper on warped rotors, proper break-in, etc. by the author of "Drive to Win".

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped...rotors_myth.htm

 

I've had problem with the speedbleeders leaking also, so out they went. I noticed (archived on here) Mike Schuster recommended the following product. Gil, are you using this also? Any negative feedback from either of you? This is probably my next approach.

www.motiveproducts.com

The prior thread is here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...=bleeding+brake

 

Earl's Solo-bleeder works differently than a Speed-bleeder . The threads do not have to seal to use Solo-bleeder . The Earl's bleeder uses a brass seat to seal bleeder . This requires very little torque to accomplish seal . Since the threads don't have to seal they do not require thread sealant.

I have ordered a Motive Power Bleeder and I will give a full report on the use and effectiveness of this product .

I have found that bleeding not to be major problem , but I rarely get all the air out the first time . I hope that one of the power bleeders solves this problem . If the Motive Bleeder does not perform as advertised I am looking at a Phoenix Power bleeder also . ( more money)

brad

 

You do know that you will have to use the standard bleed valves with a pressure bleeder.. they don't use a high enough pressure to overcome the check valves on the speedbleeders.

The thing I don't like about the pressure bleeders is the need to fill them with fluid. Seems to me it just aerates the fluid which is something you are trying to avoid. And then you have to discard the fluid you don't use or pour it back in the can with more exposure to moist air.

 

Earl's Solo-bleeder can be loosened enough to bleed with bleeder off the seat if required . How far you loosen bleeder determines required pressure to over come spring.

Yes you fill power bleeder . I don't think that aeration of fluid will be problem . I will disguard any fluid that is bleed through system.

The Phoenix bleeder does not require as much fluid for bleeding . Phoenix still recommends power bleeder for flushing system . They say that their bleeder will get bleeding accomplished with less time required and no call backs?????

I will give full report when mine arrives . I changed brakes on my Honda SI I got most of the petal , but it could be stiffer . The rear calipers on the Honda's seem to require more bleeding . The emergency brake adjuster parts inside caliper might trap air . Once you drive car for awhile air moves to top of caliper so second bleed seems to remove the air that was trapped . I don't seem to have any problem with front calipers.

brad