Brake/Clutch Fluid Purge
How many of you guys have used Speed Bleeders, vs. something like a Mity Vac or a master cylinder mounted vacuum suction system?
Purging the brake/clutch fluid is the next item on my maintenance checklist, although the fluid still looks pretty good (car only has 5.5 k miles). Does anyone use DOT 5 fluid?
good read
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml
[QUOTE][SIZE=4]DOT 4 fluids are also glycol ether based, but have a measure of borate esters thrown in for improved properties including increased dry and wet boiling points. A seldom talked about characteristic though is that because of this chemistry, the DOT 4 fluid will have a more stable and higher boiling point during the early portion of its life, but ironically once the fluid does actually begin to absorb water its boiling point will typically fall off more rapidly than a typical DOT 3. By FMVSS116 standards, DOT 4 fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point of 446F and a minimum wet boiling point of 311F.
Does this make DOT 4 fluids better than DOT 3 fluids? Not always. Remember, the boiling points listed are minimums and there are DOT 3 fluids out there with higher boiling points than some DOT 4 fluids. The real differentiating factor should be that if you run a DOT 4 fluid you really should change the fluid more often than if you use a DOT 3, if for no other reason than the rapid fall off in boiling point with time.
We won
Purging the brake/clutch fluid is the next item on my maintenance checklist, although the fluid still looks pretty good (car only has 5.5 k miles). Does anyone use DOT 5 fluid?
good read
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml
[QUOTE][SIZE=4]DOT 4 fluids are also glycol ether based, but have a measure of borate esters thrown in for improved properties including increased dry and wet boiling points. A seldom talked about characteristic though is that because of this chemistry, the DOT 4 fluid will have a more stable and higher boiling point during the early portion of its life, but ironically once the fluid does actually begin to absorb water its boiling point will typically fall off more rapidly than a typical DOT 3. By FMVSS116 standards, DOT 4 fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point of 446F and a minimum wet boiling point of 311F.
Does this make DOT 4 fluids better than DOT 3 fluids? Not always. Remember, the boiling points listed are minimums and there are DOT 3 fluids out there with higher boiling points than some DOT 4 fluids. The real differentiating factor should be that if you run a DOT 4 fluid you really should change the fluid more often than if you use a DOT 3, if for no other reason than the rapid fall off in boiling point with time.
We won
Just gravity bleed. I put in ATE super blue. My old fluid looked like dirty motor oil. It we def time (80k miles).
I think it is recommended at 50k so you have a while. Search for billman's link. I've got it at home for DYI. I will post it later if I think about it.
Simple job.
I think it is recommended at 50k so you have a while. Search for billman's link. I've got it at home for DYI. I will post it later if I think about it.
Simple job.
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