Brake Rotor Question
I currently have stock rotors and they seem to be fine. I do some tracking, but not on a regular basis. I have changed out the break fluid and I am using stock pads. My questions is would I gain much going to a slotted or drilled rotor. I don't want to change out the calipers if I don't have to.
I recommend that you keep the stock rotors and calipers. Drilled rotors WILL crack at the holes and the stock calipers work well. The stock rotors also work very well on the track except for those that are really hard on their brakes. The best bang-for-the-buck brake upgrades are switching to a high boiling point fluid and upgrading your pads. A simple fluid replacement helps, but not nearly as much as using special brake fluids designed for track use. The stock pads are O.K. when you're new to the track, but when you start braking harder and later you may overheat them and wear them out quickly. As an example, I went through a complete set of OEM pads in one track day on a track that was particularly hard on brakes (very short straights that limited brake cooling).
Upgraded braking systems offer benefits but are very expensive. It's wisest to spend the money are improving your driving skills first, then replacing components when you've reached their limits.
Upgraded braking systems offer benefits but are very expensive. It's wisest to spend the money are improving your driving skills first, then replacing components when you've reached their limits.
Originally posted by CoralDoc
I recommend that you keep the stock rotors and calipers. Drilled rotors WILL crack at the holes and the stock calipers work well. The stock rotors also work very well on the track except for those that are really hard on their brakes. The best bang-for-the-buck brake upgrades are switching to a high boiling point fluid and upgrading your pads. A simple fluid replacement helps, but not nearly as much as using special brake fluids designed for track use. The stock pads are O.K. when you're new to the track, but when you start braking harder and later you may overheat them and wear them out quickly. As an example, I went through a complete set of OEM pads in one track day on a track that was particularly hard on brakes (very short straights that limited brake cooling).
Upgraded braking systems offer benefits but are very expensive. It's wisest to spend the money are improving your driving skills first, then replacing components when you've reached their limits.
I recommend that you keep the stock rotors and calipers. Drilled rotors WILL crack at the holes and the stock calipers work well. The stock rotors also work very well on the track except for those that are really hard on their brakes. The best bang-for-the-buck brake upgrades are switching to a high boiling point fluid and upgrading your pads. A simple fluid replacement helps, but not nearly as much as using special brake fluids designed for track use. The stock pads are O.K. when you're new to the track, but when you start braking harder and later you may overheat them and wear them out quickly. As an example, I went through a complete set of OEM pads in one track day on a track that was particularly hard on brakes (very short straights that limited brake cooling).
Upgraded braking systems offer benefits but are very expensive. It's wisest to spend the money are improving your driving skills first, then replacing components when you've reached their limits.
Originally posted by JimmyB
What pads do you recommend?
What pads do you recommend?
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...&threadid=88737 and https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...4697#post484697
I have used the Porterfield R4S pads and find them to be superior to OEM pads on the track, however some people have reported crumbling and glazing of the material after hard use.
And here is a good link on changing brake pads: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...ht=brake%20pads
Originally posted by vapors2k
...Also, rotors with holes drilled into them are different than rotors will holes cast into them.
...Also, rotors with holes drilled into them are different than rotors will holes cast into them.
. I was contemplating the purchase of expensive rotors with holes cast into them (Spoon) until I saw a set exhibit the same type of cracking that cross-drilled rotors experience. This was after only two days on the track!The best performing rotors for the S2000 that I know about have iron wear surfaces that are attached to an aluminum hat. Some people have cracked their OEM rotors, but, IMO, they're still a good, economic solution for newbie track addicts, and for people like myself that aren't particularly hard on their brakes.
Originally posted by CoralDoc
Yes they are different, but only in their cost and in the way that they are made
. I was contemplating the purchase of expensive rotors with holes cast into them (Spoon) until I saw a set exhibit the same type of cracking that cross-drilled rotors experience. This was after only two days on the track!
The best performing rotors for the S2000 that I know about have iron wear surfaces that are attached to an aluminum hat. Some people have cracked their OEM rotors, but, IMO, they're still a good, economic solution for newbie track addicts, and for people like myself that aren't particularly hard on their brakes.
Yes they are different, but only in their cost and in the way that they are made
. I was contemplating the purchase of expensive rotors with holes cast into them (Spoon) until I saw a set exhibit the same type of cracking that cross-drilled rotors experience. This was after only two days on the track!The best performing rotors for the S2000 that I know about have iron wear surfaces that are attached to an aluminum hat. Some people have cracked their OEM rotors, but, IMO, they're still a good, economic solution for newbie track addicts, and for people like myself that aren't particularly hard on their brakes.
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Originally posted by vapors2k
mostly depends on track and driver but it's all frank and beans. Ideal setup is what you described as alum hat with replace-able friction surface.
Whenever anyone mentions changing rotors, I bring these up. I crew for a guy who races a number of cars. With his vintage 911, we used to go through a set of rotors every race weekend. Regardless of what we tried (better brake ducts, water cooling, etc.) the rotor life was the same.
We tried cryo-treated rotors after someone suggested them. Thought it sounded a bit iffy but now that these rotors have gone 4 race weekends flawlessly, I'm sold on them!
These are the guys we got them from. http://www.frozenrotors.com/
We tried cryo-treated rotors after someone suggested them. Thought it sounded a bit iffy but now that these rotors have gone 4 race weekends flawlessly, I'm sold on them!
These are the guys we got them from. http://www.frozenrotors.com/



