S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Brake stuff

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Old Jan 29, 2001 | 07:26 PM
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Hi guys

1)I was wondering when do I know I need to change my brake pads and brake fluid? Is there any sign? I am using winter tires now and it takes a much longer distance to stop. I am not sure whether this is the brake problem or tires.

2)Is there any good website to read up on these issues?

thanks
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Old Jan 29, 2001 | 08:21 PM
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Man, I thought this thread was going to cover that Limp Bizkut song!
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Old Jan 29, 2001 | 08:34 PM
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Originally posted by nwk00
I was wondering when do I know I need to change my brake pads and brake fluid? Is there any sign? I am using winter tires now and it takes a much longer distance to stop. I am not sure whether this is the brake problem or tires.
If you are not tracking your car, you need to change your brake fluid relatively infrequently; once a year is more than sufficient. Once every two years is still good. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it likes to absorb water. This water significantly reduces the boiling point of the fluid. When the fluid boils, you can get brake spongyness (sp?) as gas (from the boiling fluid) is generated in the brake lines, and as we all learned in high school, gas is compressible, but fluid is not. Water can also cause corrosion in the brake system, which is the primary reason you change the fluid on a non-tracked car.

Pads on a non-tracked car need to be replaced when they get very thin, as observed visually. Most cars, including the S2000, have wear sensors; thin pieces of metal that rub against the rotors and create a terrible sound when your pads get thin causing you to go into your dealer, who then replaces your pads and resurfaces your rotors. How long your pads last depends on how "heavy" you brake. I would think at least 15K miles with normal driving. Possibly as much as 50K.

When a car is tracked, racers often substitute a brake fluid with a higher boiling points than the stock fluid. This reduces brake fade, but most "racing" fluids absorb water more quickly, requiring more frequent changes. Racing also super-heats rotors, pads and fluid, causing more rapid breakdown of the fluid. For these reasons, tracked cars should get their fluid changed much more frequently, as often as every race-day.

Pads on a tracked car are also often substituted. Pads that resist heat better and stop better when hot are used, at the expense of more dust, more wear to the rotors and higher cost. True race pads also work poorly when cold, making them a very bad choice for street driving. Conversely, if you track your car with stock pads, you run a good chance of destroying them in as little as one track day. If you take it easy, you can get reasonable wear even on the track with stock pads.

Your increased stopping distances are almost certainly due to your tire change.
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Old Jan 29, 2001 | 08:41 PM
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well, if you're having trouble stopping, check the brakes. The pads have a little metal flange on them that sits off to the side just far enough out that it doesn't touch the rotor until the pad gets worn out. Then it touches and you get a squeeking noise. At that point, most people get irritated and take te car to te dealership, so the little metal thingy does its job and saves lives by making people who would otherwise not think about their brakes think about them. If you don't hear that, your pads may not be shot, but if you have trouble stopping, check 'em anyway.
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Old Jan 30, 2001 | 02:54 AM
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Thanks for all the reply, it certainly was very helpful.

I am having doubts now because I tracked my car once a few months ago and hence was wondering whether it could have contributed to accelerated wear.

Another reason for my doubts is that the brakes do screech, but only in very cold weather when I start driving the car in the morning. After a few more light braking, the sound goes away. Do you think coldness is the culprit for the sound?
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Old Jan 30, 2001 | 12:02 PM
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Originally posted by RT
Man, I thought this thread was going to cover that Limp Bizkut song!
Dammit, RT! I almost sprayed Diet Coke all over my keyboard when I read that! Good one!

pfb, great reply!

Ted
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Old Jan 30, 2001 | 02:32 PM
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Ok since some members have gotten the brake fluid taken care of in another thread, could someone recommend different brake pads to use and maybe give a comparison between them?


thanks
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Old Jan 30, 2001 | 02:44 PM
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nwk00-

OEM pads for the street.

Hawk Blues for the track. (modified slightly from a set for Del Sols.)

In my book, that's the only way to go...
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Old Jan 30, 2001 | 03:57 PM
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Originally posted by nwk00
Ok since some members have gotten the brake fluid taken care of in another thread, could someone recommend different brake pads to use and maybe give a comparison between them?
I'm running Porterfield R4S's. The "S" stands for "street". The R4 is a straight race pad. The R4S's seem to do great on the street and hold up to abuse on the track much better than stock pads do.

The stock pads have a tendency to melt under extreme conditions, wick up the bonding material into the pads, and then score the hell out of your rotors. Bad Bad Bad.

GTRpower, what mods did you have to do to the Del Sol pads?
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Old Jan 30, 2001 | 07:17 PM
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pfb-

"I" actually didn't do the mod. King Motorsports did.

They ground down the tabs on the outer edges, so that the pads would fit in the caliper. ***Disclaimer!!! Don't do this unless you are hardcore and stupid (like me) but if you do, make sure you have a knowledgeable person doing it, and waive everyone's liability- do at your own risk!***

I personally have had fair luck with Porterfield pads- but the R4 compound just can't take the heat like the Blues.

I also burned up the stock pads in 10 minutes of track driving- great street pad, horrible, HORRIBLE track pad.

Mr. Stevens, however, managed to last at least four track days on OEM street pads (at LEAST one set). Wonders will never cease, I tell you!
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