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My brakes have been really crappy lately... They stutter when under light braking, but work fine under hard braking. The ABS has been kicking in under light braking (could be the rain, but it didn't do it last year).
By stutter I mean the brakes seem to grip then let go then grip again... I've had warped rotors before (on another car) and its similar but not the same... cause before the harder you braked the worse it got... The s2k is different there is a small range of pressure that causes the car to stutter.
I thought maybe it was the brake pads.. I looked at them, but since I hadn't seen new pads before I thought they were worn out. So, I orderd new pads, but they are hardly any bigger and I saw the squeel bar. My pads are nowhere near that worn.
What is most likely the problem? Could glazed pads be causing this problem? Bad brake fluid? or maybe warped rotors?
Some info about my car:
2001, stock pads never been changed 33K miles on them, same for the brake fluid and rotors all orginal from the factory.
I've tracked the car once and auto-x it 3 times... So, I thought for sure the brake pads would be gone... but as far as I can tell they are only about 30% worn.
I'll bet you have glazed rotors, or glazed hotspots on the rotors - either from overheating them, or from outgassing of the pads, or both. This can easily be verified by honing the rotore (not turning them) which any competent brake shop can do. If you are mechanically inclined, you can get the right gizmo and use it with a power drill, applying an ansymmetric pattern. Or, rent a dial gauge and measure the runout of the rotor on the spindle.
I'd like to do the work my self if the tools are reasonable $$... How is honing different from turning? Would it be cheaper for me to just replace the rotors...
I think you are right just going to new rotors since they are not that expensive.. the ones sold in the store are fine. IMO there is no reason to turn them, just install with a new set of pads and take in easy braking for a few days to break the in.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Goldtrom
Should I wait for my pads to wear out before changing the rotors? to put it another way... will I damage anything by waiting for my pads to wear out?
Make sure that the new rotors/pads are properly broken in - I am assuming that Honda's replacement rotors have the surface properly prepared (ther surface has an asymmetric finish). If you do not know the diff between honing and turning, I do not think you are qualified to do this work yourself. No offense meant.
"Green" pads outgas a lot when new - Driving about a half hour in moderately fast (45-55 mph) suburban traffic will do it, assuming there is a fair number of stoplights and cars. You want moderately high braking forces, followed by time for the pad to cool and off, and the outgassing to dissipate into the airstream.
Have you ever replaced the tire's on your car? The reason I ask is because the tires play a key role in a car's ability to brake. Does your brake pedal vibrate? Does the front of your car shake or vibrate upon braking? Brake pads can function unconsistant at different temp's.
I had a Del Sol (with non OEM semi metallic front pads) that did something simular that you described, They worked best after I applied brakes about 4 or 5 times.
Your pads could be glazed, which all you have to do is put them through a high heat cycle (to burn glaze off) Make sure you let them cool off completely. If your rotors are within factory spec, I would have them turned. It's a lot cheaper, about 10 to 15 dollars.
Whether it's the rotors and pad's, if your tires are worn out to some degree, then your cars braking ability will be hindered. You can change the rotors and pads but if your tires (especially fronts) are worn, then your car will do exactly as you described.
The antilock system does exactly what it is supposed to do. That is, brake just before the point of tire lockup. If the tires are worn, you have less grip, hence the antilock system goes into effect.
You stated that the antilock system has been kicking in under light braking. If your tires are in fact worn, then, BINGO, you have your answer grasshopper.
At 33,000 miles, it might not be a bad idea to resurface or replace the rotors. As far as the pads go, looks like you have an extra set. I definitely recommend doing a thorough flush of your brake fluid, as two years is a long time.
I have PowerSlot Rotors with Hawk Pads, and after about 11K miles of hard driving, and a few autox's, i have no problems with them whatsoever! Plus, they look great too! (no more ugly rust!)
I'm using stock pads... and plan on getting the power slot rotors.. For now, I'm just gonna wear out my pads... I've tried the "bedding" procedure I've seen posted elsewhere and the vibrations have gotton less....
As for qualfied to do the work myself... Um no, I'm not qualfied... I'm a DIY and no DIY people are qualfied otherwise they would be profressionals.
That really isn't the question... Do I think I can do it... yes... Do I have a friend who a mechanic... yes... Do I have the tools and the time. yes... do I have the desire and patience to learn how to do it yes and yes....
If I waited till I was qualified to work on my car a I would never have learned how to replace the radiator, change the oil, diff, and tranny fluids... Alas I leanred how to do those things with little effort...
As to honing and turning... you could have just told me the difference, and then I would be just that much more informed... but I already had an idea as to what the difference was and was just asking for confirmation... In fact in most of my posts , I already know the answer, but I'm not confident that I truly do.
So, let me take a stab at the difference between honing and turning... Honding is a finishing of the surface with some sort of abrasive material (be it stone, sand, whatever). Turninig is using an actual lathe to remove the "warp" in the surface... Of course, from what I've read thus far....it is very unlikly that a rotor will warp... it is more likly for buildup from th pads to cause the "hot spots" yhou were talking about... and simply braking hard a few times can reduce this... or honing as you suggested...
Thanks for your advice eveyone... I think I know what the problem is and will report back if I'm wrong
Brakes... I've got problems
