I had a cross-threaded bolt replaced for ~$90 at the dealer. Additional bolts should only be essentially the cost of the parts plus a little extra labor.

 

I'm a bit astonished that anyone would break wheel studs on this or any car. True, the torque spec is quite low (80 ft/lbs) but these things should be able to take a little more. I've been running 90 ft/lbs for 3.5 years now and I change wheels/tires twice a year. However, I do try to do a little maintenance on the studs when they are visible - wire brush them, squirt a bit of WD-40 on the studs, and also the mating surface between the back of the wheel and hub (they can get quite rusty). And always use a torque wrench and never mistake a front wheel for a back wheel.

 

That type of damage will normally happen under a few different circumstances, including:
1) The monkey who last put your wheels back on at whatever garage service you last had put them on way too tight with an impact instead of torquing them to spec properly.
2) You were using non-hubcentric aftermarket wheels on the car without the correct hubcentric adapter rings.
3) You remove and replace the wheels on the car frequently, and the studs simply streched and metal fatigued over time after all that use.

I learned my lesson once. I always keep the studs on my cars lubed with Permatex anti-sieze now. It's a must - especially if you change wheels all the time (i.e. AutoXers)

Andrew

 

I change my wheels ~ two or three times a month. I had better start using the anti-sieze

Once when I had a flat repaired - I watched the guy set the torque wrench to 100ftlb... he seemed almost shocked when I told him that spec was 80 and I usually torque to 85...

 

95% chance your lugs were over tightened. Acorn style lugs like the ones found on the S are virtually immune to seizing from corrosion because of their sealed nature. I'd specify to whoever does the job to use a torque wrench.

 

My experience is contrary to this statement. I have had several studs on my car begin to gall and sieze using the OEM rim and lugnuts torqued to the correct specifications. I use a very light lubricant now as a preventitive measure.

 

Thanks for all the answers guys!!!
I think we figure out the problem, the rim wasnt straight(I hit a curb long, long time ago) and over time lugs got loose(from I guess we could call it jerking motion of the rim)...thats all
Honda dealership said $197+parts+towing, however I have a friend coming over to fix it for me,
Brad

 

I had two studs break off my s with factory wheels. the lugs had not been touched in months.

 

Thanks