I'm really glad i saw this post before I attempted the install myself Good info thanks!!!

 

I just reinstalled my KG-MM DR21 Race springs, but didn't preload them.

Chris, for the fronts, as you said, I had to undo my upper A arms. I left the bottom arms alone for fear of affecting the geometary too much (to make things easier, I used a jack to 'push' the arms down when I fitted the shock back in). I will tighten them as per your instruction.

But for the rears, what do you have to preload? When I removed my rear shock assembly, all I did was undo the top two nuts, and then undo the bottom bolt that runs through the lower attachment 'u' of the shock bottom.

Is THAT the bolt you have to preload for the rear? Because I didn't touch any other bolts.

Also, do you have to preload the top shock mounting bolts that attach the shock assembly to the body of the car (two for each shock)?

Thanks!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sime
[B]I just reinstalled my KG-MM DR21 Race

 

It is the bolts that hold the upper control arms, both front and rear, that have the rubber bushings that hold a pre-load. The lowers do not seem to do the same, and as observed, do hold the alignment. I just don't fully torque any bolt (although the nuts securing the two bolts through the top of the shock tower would make no difference) until I have the weight of that corner lifted by the compressed suspension.

 

Thanks for the explanation Chris. In the service manual though, it talks about removing the front shock assembly by removing the lower castle nut, not the a-arms. Do I need to adjust the preload on the front castle nut if I didn;t touch it in the first place?

And, the same with the rear.....as I didn't touch the rear upper bolts, then I don't need to adjust them as they are already set from the factory?

Although (tapping fingers on the table!).......because I put in a different height spring in the rear, should I be resetting the preload on those upper bolts?

Thanks!

 

I believe it does state in the helms to lift the car off the jack stands even when doing just the shocks. I have not done that and have not felt any difference in handling. But next time I do play with the shocks I will preload before torquing and see if does make a difference.

 

I am going to do mine soon. Do we have to loosen the upper arms or can it be done only by loosening the lower. Can't visualize as I have never done it...

 

Don't fool with the lower. Loosen the two bolts that hold the upper a-arm and the bolt that holds the shock.. lift the corner and torque to spec.

 

Perfect, can't wait to do mine.


Waiting for torque specs (other thread) and the springs to arrive.

 

Here are the torque specs:

Front suspension:
Flange nuts that attach shock asembly to car (upper most nuts that stick into engine bay) - 49Nm/ 36lbf-ft
Damper bottom where bottom of shock bolts to lower a-arm: 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts: 103Nm / 75.9lbf-ft

Rear suspension:

Flange bolt at bottom of damper (the bolt that goes through the bottom of the upside down 'U'): 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts (if you touched them): 132Nm / 97.6lbf-ft


This is what it says in the service manual: First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and a nut, then place jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.

I just did the adjustment to the front a-arms - haven't adjusted the rear yet. Whilst it didn't drop the ride height of the front of the car any further, my car 'seems' to be more direct in the steering now. In any case, I certainly feel better knowing that my car is adjusted the way it should be from the factory.

On another note, can anybody tell me the suggested price of the S2000 Shop manuals? The son of the owner of Helm took my firearms class last weekend and sent me for FREE a Helms S2000 2000-2002 Shop Manual and Electrical Diagnostic book? Both books are the dark blue color and have the 3 ring punch holes. Any idea what these cost? It's not the retail hardcover manual book.

Cheers