Hey everyone,

In short: Car starts but then turns off after a few minutes if I let it warm up and idle, it then doesn't turn on again until I let it sit for a while and it happens again.
Diagnostic details:

• Runs on starter fluid, albeit with a loud rod knock (doesn't have any rod knock when running on the 91 octane gas in the tank)
• Fuel delivery line by the pump had no fuel in it right after not being able to start
• Fuel pump is new from Rock Auto, I believe Denso
• Does not catch idle perfectly always, sometimes gets as low as 200-400 before coming back up. (this is after Idle Relearn)
• IACV is new from HondaPartsNow (OEM)
• Cylinder 4 misfire prior to changing spark plugs and ignition coil, not sure if it went away.
• Spark plugs new
• Ignition Coils new
• Exhaust has a leak before the catalytic converter.

In a lot of detail:
I got a 2000, she's nearly got 360,000 mi on her. I'm running into what seems to be a fuel system issue. I put in a new genuine IACV and a Fuel Pump from Rock Auto maybe a few weeks ago. Before swapping those two parts, my car would not like to idle, and when it would shut off on it's own I would usually have to spray starter fluid into the intake to get it to start. After putting on the new IACV and putting in the Fuel Pump it's been running okay. It still didn't catch the idle perfectly but it wasn't shutting off. Car was running pretty normal, went to AutoZone and I was recharging my AC in the parking lot. Then the engine shut off and wouldn't start. When spraying starter fluid it runs but it doesn't run on it's own. Should also note that there's a loud scary rod knocking sound whenever using the starter fluid, most likely due to the wrong fuel mixture but worth noting.
I waited a while at AutoZone, car cooled down a bit, I primed the fuel pump a bunch of times and the car started up. But after a while at idle it turned off. I waited again for it to cool down, it started up and I instantly started driving it as I just needed to get down the street to my garage. Car cut off in traffic, I think it was a moment that I had let off the throttle. Pulled it into a gas station and at the pump i had the same problem as before. While at the gas station, I swapped ignition coils and spark plugs, same thing. Removed the fuel pump to make sure connections were solid (inside the pump), oddly enough it did NOT have pressure in the fuel line, but the connections seemed fine.

So now I'm asking for advice. I've seen that the Fuel Pressure Regulator could be an issue, but I don't seem to have all the symptoms mentioned. A mobile mechanic was telling me he thinks it's the fuel pump and he doesn't believe in RockAuto. I'll see if I can bike down to autozone sometime soon and get fuel pressure tester and see if I get pressure while turning the key and if not, see if i get pressure when I hook up a battery directly to the fuel pump.

Appreciate any help, thanks

 

Idle relearn?

 

I did the idle relearn after replacing fuel pump and IACV earlier this month. But even then, the car isn't starting at all when warm unless you give it starter fluid. I looked over the wiring diagrams for the PGM-FI system and from my understanding the fuel delivery is turned on the same way whenever you crank the engine. So I should be able to start the engine and keep it on with the throttle if it's an idle relearn issue. I'm not able to start it when warm and when I use starter fluid I can't keep it on with the pedal either, it shuts off when you stop giving it starter fluid.

I got a fuel pressure test kit and I'll be doing the fuel pressure test according to the service manual today.

 

Yeah, if you have fuel, spark, and air in the intake, the car shouldn't die. Is there a reason that the problem could be thrust bearing failure? Have you installed a heavy-duty clutch pressure plate?

 

I kinda recently replaced the pressure plate and clutch. But I put stock pressure plate and stock clutch in there. That's not the issue though.

I hooked up a battery directly to the fuel pump and the car ran! I decided to plug the electrical connector in and let it warm up and shut off on it's own. It did that! Then I wired the battery up to the pump again and it started and ran fine for a nice long time. Plugged the electrical connector back in and it wouldn't start.

I noticed that when I turn the key from off to accessory power, (not ignition) I hear a buzz come from by the fuel pump for half a second. I thought it was the fuel pump priming because I tried it with the car plugged into the pump at first. But it does that even when unplugged. I'm not sure what the buzz is, could be the connector itself? The connector wouldn't click in as well, but it would click in before, wonder if it the plastic expands when warm and it doesn't lock in place anymore? not sure. Could also be the main relay is going bad I believe? Hoping someone has had a similar problem and they can chime in.

Most likely I'm going to wire in a manual switch into the fuel pump for now as I gotta get my only car to drive me around again. I will definitely fix it back to stock once I figure out the problem, but just getting to the parts store is a hassle on my bicycle. Elitist enthusiasts can calm themselves about my quick fix, I like to keep the car stock lol.