Yea, did the MAP whack and left the positive terminal off the battery overnight to reset the ECU. I guess I'll check the vac lines first. If I can't find anything wrong there then I'll go to the wiring.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Scott-

 

Check the power wire for the ESM module. I saw one install where they found a red wire on the ECM that had +12v only with the key ON and assumed it was "accessory power".

Unfortunately it was the AC compressor wire, so whenever the AC button was pushed, the ECM grounded that wire, killed power to the ESM, which stalled the engine.

It was actually pretty funny, (since it wasn't my car). You could press the AC button, stall the engine, release it, and it would come back to life. And no CEL either. You would think that screwed up MAP signals would throw a CEL, but not in this case.

.

 

Tri following this diagram

 

On the hole crimping vs soldering thing, on a tip from a friend.

I used these Euro style Terminal strips

Euro Terminal Strip

Strip both ends, slide them in and screw the terminals down, easy and clean and tight.

George

 

Do you happen to remember the reasoning they gave you behind the "soldering is worse (??) than crimping" advise?

Crimping, done properly, can work just fine but, I fail to see how it can be "better" than soldering. Soldering makes a solid connection between the two wires that is very unlikely to come loose or cause problems. Crimping, OTOH, can and often does, work it's way loose. There can also be corrosion problems between the crimping devise and the wires themselves. While these issues with crimping can be avoided or minimized, they are not anything I've ever seen with a well soldered connection.

The main advantage I can see to crimping is that it's generally easier and certainly faster than soldering, especially in tight spaces. But to say that soldering is worse than crimping, especially from the POV of achieving a reliable electrical connection, is ludicrous, IMO!

Drive Safe,
Steve R.

 

improperly done, solder cannot stand up to vibrations very well.

with a good ratcheting crimping tool, and non insulated butt connectors, I've found it's faster and easier to get good connnections. Crimp connectors, when properly destressed can do better than solder in a highly vibrating environment like a car.

Done well, both are fine methods, but I think that solder leaves more room for error than a good quality crimping tool. Auto parts store $3 crimpers and $1 boxes of insulated crimps are just asking for bad connections, as are vampire taps (both make it very easy to not crimp what you think you'vee crimped, etc.) I've found that the problem with vampire taps is that when you use them on a different gauge of wire than they were intended for, not only do they cut the insulation but parts of the wire, as well.

 

Damn......That pic gets around.....I did not understand that damn thing till I saw that pic for the pic.....

Here is the pics you asked for and a little write up!!!!!! PM me if you have ?'S and I will give you my phone #..........
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=229656

 

Since I didn't do the install myself, where will the ESM be located?

 

If you Paid someone else to install the SC, shouldn't they be addressing this problelm?

 

But if they did not do it right the first time, or have never done one on the S b-4 they might not know what they did wrong.

How did the shop tap the ESM into the ECU????? Give them a call and ask them. I bet it will be one or the other. ESM or vaccum lines. Not sure if this is true but I hear their was a bad batch of fuel pressure regulators from the old kits. Is the kit new or used?????