Ok..My S is starting to piss me off and I hate saying that…but I’m sick of spending money to fix issues that won’t fix. I had posted some time back that when I depress the clutch the drive shaft wont co me to a complete stop, thus the car lurches or thumps in some gears. The car also is hard to get out of gear when coming to a stop unless i depress the clutch and wait 4 seconds before i take it out of gear.

SO….. I did as recommended here. Spent $350 bucks replacing the clutch master AND slave, with new fluid of course and guess what??

When I depress the clutch the drive shaft STILL WONT F****G stop. I’m upset.. The parts were new (not OEM but new), the mechanic did the job right (he is pretty good) and the clutch hydros were bled fully. I’ve adjusted the pedal too, no good. AND... the car is still hard to get out of gear when i push in the clutch...

I just want this damn issue fixed because I do not want to be buying a new tranny or diff because I’m forcing the car into gear when the drive shaft is spinning…. I’m just so sick of this problem… and like many here due to a s**t economy i havent had a pay raise in 4 years while the cost of living skyrockets. i have no more $$$ to dump into this issue...

As far as i am concerned, as soon as the clutch hits the floor the driveshaft should be fully stopped. There should be NO delay, its a hydrolic system. If this is not the case and Honda just designed a S****Y hydrolic system, let me know because im dumping too much time and $$$ into this car...

 

Is the driveshaft spinning with the wheels on the ground or with the car on jackstands?

 

Ill find out. Im going to take the car back to the mechanic tomorrow and tell him im still having the issue. im also going to make him sit in the car a watch me depress the clutch and feel the thump when it goes into gear. Then ill go from there...

 

It sounds like what you're feeling is the input shaft stopping with force because the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Could be a problem with the clutch or T.O. bearing.

 

Yeah my thoughts exactly. The car only has 70 K and i didnt wanna do a clutch right now... but at this point after replacing the clutch master and slave id put my money on T.O. bearing...

 

70k is plenty of time to wear a clutch. If you do have to do a throw out bearing I'd do a clutch disk and pressure plate. It's not a fun job to replace so you'd save in the long run on labor.

 

Sounds like the input shaft is rusted against the clutch disk and the disk is dragging. The other possibility is a cracked clutch disk spring retainer, but that's very unlikely being OEM. Next time, have someone press the clutch while you watch the clutch fork. If it moves full stroke you know it's not the hydraulic system. Be careful with throwing parts at it. A lot of people's well intended advice is without all of the proper troubleshooting steps to avoid costly parts.

 

I agree. I had issues with my clutch. Very hard to get up and go from a stop with out bucking or the tires wanting to bark. Clunking through gears. I changed my clutch and realized that my input shaft was rusted. PB blaster to clean it and a good moly grease with my new clutch and it's as smooth as butter. I have an ACT heavy duty and it's smoother than the OEM ever felt. I've heard that the input shaft is under greased from the factory, but that may just be word of mouth.

 

^ spot on.

I am confident you have a dragging clutch disc based on your description.

If full travel of the fork has been confirmed (it sounds like it has, if the pedal FEELS right you can pretty much say for sure its not a hyd issue), these are most likely the problem. These are very common and I find it almost every trans I pull.

 

Here's a broken stock disc. Note the part that appears blue. it sticks out and drags on the PP causing your issues. note the drag/scoring on the inner ring of the PP. Note the major rust on the disc spline also.



Here's a rusted spline. Very common.



I'm confident if you pull the trans you'll resolve it. Come by I'll do it while you wait