Seeking perfection, since my last alignment did not hit the UK target spec's perfect, the alignment shop just spent over 2-hours, at no charge, really digging into my settings. Bottom line, Not All Cars Are Equal.

They could get negative 1 degree camber on both fronts with no problem (the goal). But postive 6-3/4 degree caster, forget it. They couldn't even get the same RF caster (5.1) they reported the last time. No one is quite sure why (incomplete sweep, one of the nuts not completely tighted on the alignment head, who knows). This time they did three different caster sweeps to obtain the average and the best obtainable on the problem RF was positive 4.1. LF was 6. In an attempt to improve the RF they tried to move the front cradle but soon discovered the only movement available made things worse. In otherwords, it had already been set at maximum correction at the factory. They tried less front cambers with negative 0.7 but it had no impact on caster available. So it would appear something in the front sub-assembly has moved at some point and time (during assemblely or later); in any case, the stock spec caster setting of 6 wasn't possible, let alone more.

The only solution they saw was getting an aftermarket tube sub-assembly (like on beefed-up Mustanges, if it's available) or possibly changing the upper suspension attachment bolts, etc. to allow for more adjustment.

Settings were put back to where they were at the start of the day. At least I'm sure now on where I am at and why. And, on the whole really like the settings anyways. (shown below).

Factory Specs from Honda Workshop Manual
F - 0

 

i agree on the point about not all cars being equal from the factory.

i don't so much agree with what i would call the uber hair splitting that's going on here especially for a car that's being primarily used for the street.

 

I just had my alignment done last week. Here are my settings:
Front:
Caster L: 5.7 R:6.3
Camber L/R: -0.7
Toe L/R: 0
Rear:
Camber L/R: -1.7
Toe L/R: 0.45

I've no idea how to make the "degree" symbol.


Interestingly, the specifications for the rear toe is from 0.30 - 0.60. I've no idea if the spec is US or UK, but the numbers look a little more aggressive than the US spec.

 

I had a problem on my car at a recent alignment. One of the adjuster bolts had seized in the metal centre of the bush, so was just loading the bush and not adjusting. Since the adjuster seemed to be turning fine... it took a bit of spotting to figure out what was going on. But I put that down to the UK climate with salted winter roads accelerating corrosion. Apart from that hiccup, not had any problems on my car. Another UK S2000 struggled to reach the full 6'45, but was limited to 6'30 or so. I suppose the variation in the cars could be that high... but it does seem really high.

-Brian.

 

I had my lower front left control arm replaced under warranty due to this issue. I don't drive in the snow but there might be some effect fromn the dry salt getting on the parts and then getting wet. The right side is fine.

 

True, some of this is hair splitting. But, as the manager at the alignment shop said today, it's also what separates the real car enthusiast from the pack. No doubt he understood since he races motorcycles and we had a long discussion on the specs and the importance of them, both pro and con.

I would simply add to that, don't judge it until you've tried it. My camber/toe were to OEM specs originally (sadly they didn't take a baseline caster reading but it must have been off). When I did my hair splitting changes I could not believe the improvement on the "road". And, yes, I track as well but even if I didn't I would want the changes.

 

It is my understanding that you need to set caster before you set camber. But it seems that if you set camber first you can't get full caster and if you set caster first you can't get full camber.

 

Also, depending on your alignment equipment, tire wear will also affect your alignment readings

 

I've heard that numerous times too. I discussed that with the alignment shop, and they shook their heads, simply saying that camber and caster work must together.

 

I have done alignments on formula Mazda racecars. I would adjust caster first, then camber. It is true, adjusting caster affects the camber settings and camber affects the caster. What this meant for the formula car is, I had to readjust camber after the caster adjustment, then readjust the caster again. Depending on the car, sometimes you would have to do this back and fourth 3 or 4 times, depending on how bad the car was wrecked, and how much the frame was bent. I would then adjust the toe and make sure all four wheels were square. I realize that a formula car is different from the s2k, but I would think that this would transfer over. I have never pesonally aligned a s2k, so I cant be sure.