Hi guys,

so shop diagnosed low compression in #3 cylinder and had the head removed. Machine shop now indicates that all exhaust valves are burnt, and that the head needs to be worked, all exhaust valves, guides need to be replaced.

Trying to figure out what the heck might have caused this, while I don't baby the car, I definitely do not redline on a regular basis and I have not mis-shifted.

Shop claims it's from just high compression temps (sounds fishy) so wanted to see what could have caused this. Any input? Thanks in advance....Same shop did a valve adjustment 15,000 miles ago after CEL registered mis-fires in #1,3,4 and random codes. Could this be related?

and approx how much should all this run?

also, shop says that i should consider having the coolant hoses changed since i'm at 80,000 miles and changing the coolant hoses requires removal of the head?

Thanks!

Ben

 

I think you need to find a new shop. They're messing with you, your wallet and your car.

Burnt valves can happen from near zero valve clearance. The valves don't fully close.
Maybe you should ask them about the valve clearance. Maybe THEY gapped it too close. Maybe THEY are the ones who screwed up your engine. Did they do anything else to resolve the misfire? Seems to me that doing a valve adjustment would be only one thing (and maybe the LAST thing) that should have been done.

Find another shop. Next thing you know, they'll be removing your transmission to change the crank pulley.

The service manual for a 2002 S2000 indicates you can leave the coolant in your engine for up to 10 years or 120,000 miles, so do you think Honda would need you to change the hoses at 80,000 miles. Coolant hoses don't just get changed at a prescribe mileage. They get changed when their condition, upon inspection, deems that they need to be changed. Did they inspect them and do they know what to look for? I would guess not.

 

hey guys, thanks for the responses. i kinda knew they were screwing with me, the only problem is there's no way i'm going to be able to prove that they screwed the car up, or is there a way to show that the burnt valves resulted from the valve clearances?

another problem is that given the seemingly extensive damage to the valves, etc, i would need to have the car towed to another shop wouldn't i?

thanks
ben

 

you drove it in there with no problem, didn't you? there's no reason you shouldn't be able to drive it to another shop. find a reputable honda dealer in your area. post in your regional forum and ask if need be.

 

Wisconsin,

I've already posted in the regional forums for a shop rec, because I've already been through too many headaches.

I guess I was thinking about a tow because I'm concerned that they'd deliberately do something f'd up on the head replacement once they realize I'm taking it to another shop. But i'm probably worrying too much.

Thanks in advance,

Ben

 

I agree with Xviper.


The only way to burn the exhaust valves is SUPER HIGH exhaust temp caused by very retared timing which will NEVER HAPPEN in stock Honda.

Unless your car was heavy tuned(high boost F.I. or full N.A with full EMS.), this is almost impossible to happen.

 

so how did this happen? the shop also mentioned the possibility of loose valve seats, but not sure what would've caused that either. thanks again for any additional input.

 

Or improper valve adjustment, if the lash is too tight, it would burnt the valve too.

don't know how likely will that be with the high revving s2k but it could happen.

viper pretty much nail it down, coolant flush will only need to be bleed not remove head.

i am looking forward to change the hose and coolant for my 80K, but for different reason, the honda recommended mile and number is for when you using HONDA fuild only, if you put anything except pure coolant or distilled water, it will need to be change much quicker. The most likely cause is that someone filled the rad. with tap water, the mineral in the tap water will not like the aluminum internal of the engine block.

 

if it's loose it would tap like a mofo, like a sewing machine kind of sound.

 

Haha....my day just gets better. just received an estimate from the shop

$323.28 (8) exhaust valves
$109.04 (8) valve guides
$ 73.28 valve spring retainers
$108.80 valve springs (16)
$251.66 Top End gasket
$1500 labor for cylinder head work.


Before I tell them to f off which is what I'm doing, if this is all they're doing, can't I just buy a complete cylinder head (used) and slap it on?

Thanks in advance,
Ben