Changed Slave Cylinder...
 

Alright... Pumped like 500 times and went through nearly 2 bottles of fluid...

Tried fast / slow / etc... Doesn't seem like air is coming out anymore, but the clutch is soft until about 40% of the way down, where it feels like a normal clutch again. When I replaced the slave cylinder (this project) all the fluid was emptied from the resivoir. I topped it up. Pumped a good 20 times, topped it up again, then started bleeding.

Was reading that someone else that had a similar problem actually found that they needed to adjust the pedal??? Anyone think this is worth a shot? How hard?

Thanks!

Take a deep socket, 14 mm I think, and a big C clamp. Remove the slave cyl from the tranny and remove the plunger and its boot. Insert the deep socket into the slave cyl and place both in the C-clamp. Orient the bleed valve in the up position and commence bleeding. This methods makes it easy to check your work. As soon as you close that valve, the pedal should be rock hard. Once your'e satisfied, put the plunger and boot back on. Install slave cyl and be on your way.

Or, raise the rear end up high enough to get the bleed valve higher than the rest of the slave cyl body and then bleed.

hope this helps

Do not adjust it.

Unbolt the slave from the trans, orient the bleeder so it is on top, and open it. Gravity will push the air right out, I've done it on the s2k dozens of times.

I have a pic of exactly how to hold the slave. But as usual the site is having issues. Once pics are working, hit me up and I'll post it here.

Aight....hold the slave just like this, make sure the master is full, and open the bleeder. You'll see bubbles :)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...aae905fed9.jpg

Thanks for all the tips guys... I actually went ahead and jacked the back of the car way up in the air, and about 5-10 cycles later all the air was out. Clutch still isn't disengaging though :( On the subject of changing the clutch, is it possible to resurface the flywheel?

Where the black rubber boot covering is. There is a piece inside of there. Make sure it is pushed all the way into the cylinder. You can actually take the whole boot off to make sure. There will be a black piece with a spring on it. Make sure it is pushed down into the cylinder like the above picture. This happened to me, and I had to push it in so I could bleed.

Just for a quick fix i may try this rather than pulling it off.

Has anyone done this method? If so how high did you have to lift it?

Follow Billman's advice. Guaranteed to get all the air out.

I just throw the rear up on jack stands.

When I opened the valve it took a couple sec before the fluid started to drip. I took it for a spin and it appears everything is ok. I have the ACT package.

When I first drove the car after the install my pedal was heavy for the first half then it lightened up. Now it's firm from the top to the floor.

The fact that when I changed my slave (old slave was binding) and there was no more grease left on the end of the ball or the fork cup still worries me. I was told they used better grease than the Honda super high temp since they know I track and Autox.

Time will tell.

Nope... still bogus.

This morning the pedal was softer and it squeaked. Engagement point was higher as well. After a few min it stiffened up. But periodically it would get really soft with a very high engagement point.

Maybe still more air? If so why so inconsistent?

I think the master is pooched.

EDIT: The slave was in bad shape so maybe the master is as well.