Hello,

I've been reading numerous threads about clutch pedal adjustments, but I couldn't find info about this one.

So the point where my clutch catches is nearly up at the top of the pedal travel. I always have to ride my clutch more than ever, and yea its no fun.

So im looking to adjust it so that I can put the catch point down to middle or similar to OE specs again.

I looked at the clutch assembly, and noticed the clutch is bolted onto the clutch master piston.

I loosened the bolt that locks it in, and turned the piston rod so that its now adjusted to the end of the rod.

here is a diagram:

/
/-(bolt)----[Clutch master piston)====
/
Clutch pedal-> (-/

the clutch feels slightly better, but it cannot be adjusted any more to bring the catch point any closer, and its still sitting pretty high.

What is the remedy to this? pressure plate worn?

Thanks!

edit//my diagram fail.

 

bump! no one knows ??

 

I have seen it done via the bolt you mentioned, mine was done that way,

 

but now the rod is like at the end, and the catch point is still high.

 

I'm also looking for an answer to this. My clutch engages unusally high and I would like to set it lower.

 

bleed the clutch fluid to rule out air in the system.

 

I advise against messing with this.
Look at the OEM spec from the Helms manual and use that.

I had it adjusted so there is no free-play but apparently the cylinder expands with heat and will raise that point after driving for a bit so you'll end up slipping your clutch. The free-play needs to be there.

 

because your engagement point is higher than normal, this means the MC rod is longer than it needs to be. you effectively have more MC travel than you need. you should be able to bring the clutch pedal down without ill effect. this just means your surfaces are worn. could be PP, disc, FW friction surface, or a combination thereof.

---if by "end" of the rod you mean you adjusted it where the rod is about to fall out of the clutch pedal clevis, then you adjusted it the wrong way. IF its so far into the pedal that you can make it any shorter, then you are SOL (apart from shortening the rod of course).


think about it this way. there are two limits to adjusting the clutch pedal static height.

#1- as boofster stated, there must be a bit of free play before the pedal actuates the MC rod.
#2- there must be a minimum amount of MC movement to properly disengage the clutch.

With these two parameters in mind, the way to go about adjusting your clutch for best performance is to:
#1- adjust the rod first. if you shorten the pedal travel too much (threading the rod "into" the pedal clevis), the clutch will not fully disengage. This can be check rudimentarily by pushing the clutch in in first gear and revving the engine to check for "creep". The proper way to do it is to measure for the correct amount of travel at the slave cylinder. Once you have lengthened the MC rod adequately (turned it Counter clockwise "out" of the pedal clevis), THEN to step #2.
#2-This is easy. With a cold car, you want just a bit of play where you can push the clutch pedal inwards and the clevis pin will float against the clutch return spring. Use the backstop (the 14mm nut holding the clutch release sensor) to adjust for this. Obviously, the less play, the lower the static clutch pedal height. Just make sure there is enough play to account for heat expansion.

Either extreme of not enough play or not enough travel will harm your clutch. A new, thicker disc will help, but because of these limitations, there is only so much you can do with a worn clutch disc.