S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Clutch doesn't disengage correctly

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Old 10-11-2007, 04:23 AM
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Default Clutch doesn't disengage correctly

I just did a clutch job on my S2000 MY00 and now with everything back together and ready to go I cannot get my clutch to fully disengage. When the car is on I cannot engage a gear and if I start in gear it just moves forward even with the pedal to the floor.

I bleed the slave and still have gotten no results, I can see/feel the clutch fork move when I have someone push the clutch pedal. It seems like maybe there is a small trick here. I thought about pulling the slave off and opening the bleeder and push the shaft in the slave further to bleed any air that could in there. Everything seems to be back together correctly and I am using an Exedy organic clutch with a little bit stronger pressure plate. Please any help would be good I leave on a big trip next week and must use this car.
Old 10-11-2007, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by listed,Oct 11 2007, 07:23 AM
I just did a clutch job on my S2000 MY00 and now with everything back together and ready to go I cannot get my clutch to fully disengage. When the car is on I cannot engage a gear and if I start in gear it just moves forward even with the pedal to the floor.

I bleed the slave and still have gotten no results, I can see/feel the clutch fork move when I have someone push the clutch pedal. It seems like maybe there is a small trick here. I thought about pulling the slave off and opening the bleeder and push the shaft in the slave further to bleed any air that could in there. Everything seems to be back together correctly and I am using an Exedy organic clutch with a little bit stronger pressure plate. Please any help would be good I leave on a big trip next week and must use this car.
How thick is the Exedy disc ?
Go to your manual and find out how thick should be for the new
clutch disc from Honda.

Let say if Honda spec is 10mm thick (new) and Exedy is 12mm, then you will have problem. Its always be engaged.

Did you bleed it really good?
Is the clutch slave throwing a good amount of rod action?
Old 10-11-2007, 01:07 PM
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I will try re-bleeding tonight and see what my results were. I did not measure the disk before I put it in but I can try to call the company and see if they know. If anyone knows what the stock is supposed to be let me know as I don't have a manual.
Old 10-11-2007, 02:29 PM
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Clutch drag can be caused by several things:
If the bleeding doesn't fix it, it may be...
Bent clutch disc, or burr on the tranny input shaft or clutch disc that doesn't let the disc slide nice on the trans input.
I also had a car that tested me..... it was a bad pilot bearing that looked good, but when installed, seized hard to the tranny. I doubt this for you, but just throwing it out there.
Old 10-11-2007, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by listed,Oct 11 2007, 04:07 PM
I will try re-bleeding tonight and see what my results were. I did not measure the disk before I put it in but I can try to call the company and see if they know. If anyone knows what the stock is supposed to be let me know as I don't have a manual.
The Honda brand new clutch disc should be between 8.2mm to 8.9mm

So, find out the aftermarket disc you bought. If the disc is too thick, its not gonna work. Will always be engaged.

As I said...bleed it good. Ask someone to press the clutch and see if the slave
clutch rod is pushing a good amount.
Old 10-11-2007, 08:28 PM
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Well I tried bleeding alot more tonight and I got much better pedal feel and now I can shift through the gears easy when the car is not started, although I still have no release with the clutch. When I have the car running I cannot select a gear and if i start car with clutch in and in 1st gear the car will jump like the clutch is out.

Its weird a friend I did the job and everything seemed to go fine up until now. I machined the flywheel and got a new pressure plate, clutch dick, and bearings. I called the manufacturer and they told me the plate was 8.3 so I don't really think that is it either.

Does anyone know if you have to run a different clutch fork or run it with a longer shaft? It seems to me the slave is moving the fork but just not far enough. This is crazy all this happening and I leave for a new job next Friday 2200 miles away.
Old 10-12-2007, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by listed,Oct 11 2007, 11:28 PM
Well I tried bleeding alot more tonight and I got much better pedal feel and now I can shift through the gears easy when the car is not started, although I still have no release with the clutch. When I have the car running I cannot select a gear and if i start car with clutch in and in 1st gear the car will jump like the clutch is out.

Its weird a friend I did the job and everything seemed to go fine up until now. I machined the flywheel and got a new pressure plate, clutch dick, and bearings. I called the manufacturer and they told me the plate was 8.3 so I don't really think that is it either.

Does anyone know if you have to run a different clutch fork or run it with a longer shaft? It seems to me the slave is moving the fork but just not far enough. This is crazy all this happening and I leave for a new job next Friday 2200 miles away.
So that's fine! the after market is right on the dot (8.3mm)

How about the type of fluid you are using?
Is the fluid the same as what Honda recommended?

The rod should move approx. 3/4" or more. If not, you still have problem
in the air/fluid system. Did you check underneath the rug if the
master cylinder is leaking?
I think there still a pocket of air that you can't take it out.
Sometimes it is very hard to take air out from the cylinder.

Tell me your procedure to bleed the clutch...I know this is 101.
Old 10-12-2007, 03:55 AM
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Well first I bleed the slave like this: I took it took of the trans and cracked the bleeder and pushed the rod back into the slave then closed the bleeder and let it come back out. Next with the slave back on the car we would crack the bleeder then push the pedal to the floor then close the bleeder and release and most of the time the pedal would come back up.

It really seems like something simple in the hyd. system. Last night I gained alot of clutch feel but still no results for helping me drive the car. I will probably have to take it to a shop if it is not fixed by Monday as I have to have the car next Friday to drive.
Old 10-12-2007, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by listed,Oct 12 2007, 06:55 AM
Well first I bleed the slave like this: I took it took of the trans and cracked the bleeder and pushed the rod back into the slave then closed the bleeder and let it come back out. Next with the slave back on the car we would crack the bleeder then push the pedal to the floor then close the bleeder and release and most of the time the pedal would come back up.

It really seems like something simple in the hyd. system. Last night I gained alot of clutch feel but still no results for helping me drive the car. I will probably have to take it to a shop if it is not fixed by Monday as I have to have the car next Friday to drive.
Yep! that's the way to bleed.

How much throw do see from the rod?
Can you buy a mity vac and use that to bleed instead manualy pushing?
They are cheap (self bleeding). Autozone carry that pump.

I could not think of anything else except air pocket that you can't take it out. Pump will push the air.
Better yet, find a garage with the strong pump brake bleeder.
Old 10-12-2007, 12:00 PM
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My dad has a brake bleeder tool that you use so you can 1 man bleed I will try that tonight.


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