Clutch Freeplay Keeps Going Away
So I have kind of a strange clutch issue. The clutch itself is OEM with an OEM pressure plate, not that old maybe 10,000 miles on it. The slave cylinder was also replaced at the same time, and the master cylinder was more recently replaced, so I think all the hydraulic stuff is good. I was experiencing some grinds on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift so I bled the slave for a long time. The grinds didn't really go away at first, but after driving for a few days the pedal got really firm and it appeared that all the free play in the rod and master cylinder had disappeared to the point that it felt as if the clutch was riding even with my foot off the pedal. So I adjusted the rod to get it back to normal and then a few days later it did it again, the free play disappeared and the pedal got firm at the top. So I adjusted again. Now the shifting is much smoother so was air getting worked out of the system each time? I had to adjust it again today just to get some preload off the master cylinder, maybe like half a turn on the rod. Why does this keep happening?
Originally Posted by leyczo
I would be worried that your thrust bearings are wearing out. Is the engagement point different depending on whether you are pointed uphill or downhill?
Originally Posted by shind3
How many threads do you have visible on the clutch switch? We can compare.
Not sure. Anyway, I'll continue with my hypothesis that some trapped air was working free. The drive to work this morning was really nice, the pedal felt great, and I haven't shifted this smoothly in a long time.
Edit: by shifting smoothly, I mean it finally feels like my clutch is fully disengaging which allows gear shifts without grinding.
Edit: by shifting smoothly, I mean it finally feels like my clutch is fully disengaging which allows gear shifts without grinding.
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So the clutch was done like 10k miles ago, correct? By who? Are you sure they lubed everything that is supposed to get lubed?
I am wondering what if something like the clutch fork pivot is binding, and not always fully returning. This gives extra play at top of pedal, which you adjust out. Then later it works its way loose, and now you have too much preload, and have to adjust that out.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
I am wondering what if something like the clutch fork pivot is binding, and not always fully returning. This gives extra play at top of pedal, which you adjust out. Then later it works its way loose, and now you have too much preload, and have to adjust that out.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
So the clutch was done like 10k miles ago, correct? By who? Are you sure they lubed everything that is supposed to get lubed?
I am wondering what if something like the clutch fork pivot is binding, and not always fully returning. This gives extra play at top of pedal, which you adjust out. Then later it works its way loose, and now you have too much preload, and have to adjust that out.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
I am wondering what if something like the clutch fork pivot is binding, and not always fully returning. This gives extra play at top of pedal, which you adjust out. Then later it works its way loose, and now you have too much preload, and have to adjust that out.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
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