Here is a recent clutch install I did for a member on here. I could've taken more pictures but it was a pain to take pics with my SLR with dirty hands.

To begin you need the following tools:

Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm
Wrenches
8mm allen wrench
At least two jack stands
At least 24 in of wobble extensions

Begin by removing the stock air box (3, 10mm bolts)









Remove the serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter-clockwise (14mm)



Remove the top alternator bolt (14mm)



Rotate alternator over clockwise



Insert the extensions and remove top starter bolt (14mm)





Remove the black heat shield (4, 10mm bolts)





Remove exhaust manifold heat shield (4, 12mm bolts)



Remove exhaust manifold nuts (7, 12mm nuts)

Go under the car and remove the manifold support (2, 14mm bolts)
Using two wrenches remove cat/header bolts (2, 12mm)
Under the subframe, remove motor mount nuts (4, 17mm)
Lift the passenger side of the motor about 2in and remove header from below.

On the driver side under the car, remove the A/C condenser bolts (4, 14mm)
Mark the position of the steering shaft and remove the bottom bolt (10mm)
Loosen the top bolt (10mm) and slide the joint towards the firewall

-Inside the car: remove the shift knob holding locking nut with 14mm wrench
-Remove the center console (it just snaps out, unplug two harnesses before removing)



-Using a flat head screwdriver, there are 4 arrows on the annular plastic piece, insert screwdriver and push towards the outside of the ring



Remove the shifter (3, 10mm bolts)



Back under the car:
Remove driveshaft bolts (8, 8mm allen wrench)
Remove the lower brace bar (3, 14mm per side)
Lower subframe (3 bolts per side, remove the middle one (19mm), the closest ones to the firewall are 17mm (back out 3 inches), the ones farthest away are 19mm (back out 3 inches)



Remove slave cylinder on transmission housing (2, 12mm)



With a jack support transmission housing and unbolt tranny mount (3, 14mm)



Remove transmission bolts (2, 14mm & 6, 17mm)
Disengage fork from throwout bearing



Lower jack and pull the transmission out until the main shaft is completely out



Remove pressure plate (12, 10mm 12 point nuts)



Random Pictures:

Worn out clutch:



Resurfaced flywheel



Brand new disk

 

Cleaned this thread up.. Looks like it was just moved to UTH..


If you remove the alternator and belt tensioner you can actually see the upper starter bolt and reduce the risk of breaking the knock sensor.

 

dam thats nice but what about the bolts behind the motor ?

 

Thank you sir! just what a I need -a quick concise report. I will be doing this in the next two months

 

good write up!!! stickied.

 

why didn't you replace the pressure plate? The plate you used looks dirty like the old one.

Also, torque specs for the flywheel and pressure plate would be very very helpful and are IMO necessary for a proper DIY.

 

I would be glad to provide torque specs but think how much longer it would take for me to write this.

For your refernce: 94 and 19 ft-lbs for flywheel and pressure plate respectively.

 

thanks. Those are the most important ones anyways. I'm always cautious with anything that will be rotating.

 

Under normal driving, spirited, how long does a clutch last?

 

On the install I did the clutch had about 50k miles....It really depends on your driving habits.