Hey guys and help here is appreciated.

I recently changed my clutch fluid due to it being very dark in color
and causing the clutch to feel... not that great.

Well, the change of fluid went ok.
But it seems the pedal pressure is still inconsistent.

The engagement point is always the same and the clutch
grabs good.

BUT, sometimes (seems when its hot outside mostly) the clutch is just
plain hard to push. Then (possibly after a high RPM run) the clutch
pressure will get VERY easy like it used to be! Then after two or three
clutch push's, it gets real hard to push again.

Any suggestions???

 

Did you run the slave cylinder dry when you flushed the old fluid?

 

No, not that I know of.

I just sucked the dirty fluid out of the master,
then bled the slave with new fluid till the whole system
had new fluid.

 

What did you use for fluid?

 

Can you hear any noise (shut eng off) when it's hard to push? Is this different since you changed the fluid or were you experiecing these syptoms prior to changing the fluid?

You say you changed due to color being dark but you also say feel is "still inconsistant" implying a feel problem prior

 

Thanks for the replys.

I used dot 3 brake fluid.

Yes, The clutch feel was starting to deteriorate.
The pedal was getting hard to push.

I changed the fluid, and it seems the problem is still here.
I dont think it makes any noise at all.

 

You might want to focus your attention toward the following (not necessarily in this order):
-throw out bearing
-release fork
-clutch master cylinder
-clutch slave cylinder.

 

Safe to conclude the problem is not fluid related since the change didn't do a thing. My guess is that something (a pivot) needs to be lubed somewhere. The two places that come to mind are the pedal pivot and the clutch actuating fork pivot (in the bell housing).
These are just wild guesses based on the info given.

 

This thing happened to me this weekend. I flushed the system on Saturday and after a short period of driving my pedal became very stiff at the top of it's stroke. I haven't had enough time to monkey with it since I noticed it was going to be a recurring problem but I will try to get to it tonight and see what I can find out. I (and probably you as well) followed xviper's DIY so I am going to review it again and make sure I didn't miss anything. I will let you know if I find a common error we could of made or a solution for the problem.

 

Mine is back to normal from what I can tell so far. What I did was back out the "stop" that is mounted on a bracket by the clutch pedal arm and contains a little plunger type switch that I think is the indicator for having the clutch depressed in order to start the car (interestingly enough car functions normally if unplugged because while typing I realized I didn't plug it back in ). Here's a step by step:

1. Unplug connector from brass stopper thingy (squeeze it and pull).

2. Loosen lock nut with 14mm open end wrench.

3. Turn "stop" counter-clockwise until threaded end is flush with the bracket (you may need to depress clutch pedal to allow it to spin freely).

4. Re-bleed system for good measure following xvipers' instructions.

5. Now you can spin the "stop" back down until it meets the clutch arm, adjust "free play" to your liking* and tighten the lock nut.

* Be careful to leave a little tolerance for when the fluid gets hot and expands. I think the initial problem was with the new found hydraulic ability of my fresh fluid the clutch pedal was now engaging the master cylinder when it wouldn't have done so with the old fluid and such requiring more return travel for it to fully disengage. The stiffening was probably our mental perception since for me at least it seemed now that I was paying attention to it the absolute force needed is the same, it was just being achieved at the first onset of pedal actuation and not after your leg has a bit of momentum going. Let me know if this doesn't make sense (I proof read it I promise).