Clutch Pedal Squeaks When Pressed...
My clutch pedal squeaks during its travel when pressed and while it comes back up... It used to be only when hot, but it's now happening more and more.
I tried spraying some silicone lube in the general area where the clutch lever pivots under the dash, but that hasn't done anything to solve it... what needs to be lubricated, and with which kind of lubricant?
I tried spraying some silicone lube in the general area where the clutch lever pivots under the dash, but that hasn't done anything to solve it... what needs to be lubricated, and with which kind of lubricant?
My '99 Civic LX 4-door used to make a squeeking noise when slowly depressing the clutch or during slow release. I would usually notice it when going into 1st gear from initial start or when backing out in reverse. I first thought it was from the mechanical lever assembly near the pedal too but found out it was actually coming from the slave cylinder. So I took apart the slave cylinder, cleaned and greased everything, and put back together. Never heard the noise again. Moral of the story, try to pin-point the exact location of the squeek because you might be spraying lube in the wrong place entirely.
Good point... hopefully it's not as labor intensive as taking apart the slave cylinder, though!
My 96 del Sol also squeaked when I depressed the clutch pedal, and I found out that it was the spring. I replaced it with a new oem spring (quite inexpensive) and it never squeaked again.
Good luck on finding out what the problem is!
My 96 del Sol also squeaked when I depressed the clutch pedal, and I found out that it was the spring. I replaced it with a new oem spring (quite inexpensive) and it never squeaked again.
Good luck on finding out what the problem is!
I helped to diagnose another S2000 locally a while back. We lubed the clutch pedal rod - not it. The noise seemed to come from the tranny itself. The dealer looked at it and lubed something (the shift fork, I think) - not it. The squeak eventually went away on its own.
I have a funny feeling that it was a poor grease job on the throw out bearing spindle that, over time, managed to pick up a bit of its own grease that usually gets scraped to the ends of its travel.
This may or may not be your situation and if it isn't then other possibilities are a bad seal on the master cylinder plunger, a bad seal on the slave cylinder plunger, release fork (can't rule that out) or a throw out bearing that will not cure itself like on my local car.
I have a funny feeling that it was a poor grease job on the throw out bearing spindle that, over time, managed to pick up a bit of its own grease that usually gets scraped to the ends of its travel.
This may or may not be your situation and if it isn't then other possibilities are a bad seal on the master cylinder plunger, a bad seal on the slave cylinder plunger, release fork (can't rule that out) or a throw out bearing that will not cure itself like on my local car.
I vote release fork. See here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=89220
txst gave these nice instructions (look well down in the thread):
Just did it this weekend and it cured my squeaks.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=89220
txst gave these nice instructions (look well down in the thread):
Actually, it's pretty easy.
1) Jack up/raise the car securely. It should be high enough so you can get under it.
2) Remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission.
3) Remove the rubber dust boot from the bell housing and remove the slave cylinder. Support the slave cylinder so that it does not hang from the hose.
4) Pull out the shift fork as far as possible. You will not be able to remove it, as the fork end is larger than the hole where the dust boot was.
5) Put very little high temp grease on the fork and on the roller pivot of the fork. I used Valvoline Syntech high temperature grease. I couldn't get my fingers in far enough, so I used a combination of an old knife and a piece of 10ga solid wire to apply/spread the grease.
6) Push the release fork back onto the release bearing. This will "pop" on and stay.
7) Put the slave cylinder back onto the bell housing, making sure the ball of it fits into the recess on the release fork. Replace the (2) 12mm bolts and tighten.
8) Lower the car and you are ready to go!
Whatever you do, DO NOT PUSH IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS REMOVED!
1) Jack up/raise the car securely. It should be high enough so you can get under it.
2) Remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission.
3) Remove the rubber dust boot from the bell housing and remove the slave cylinder. Support the slave cylinder so that it does not hang from the hose.
4) Pull out the shift fork as far as possible. You will not be able to remove it, as the fork end is larger than the hole where the dust boot was.
5) Put very little high temp grease on the fork and on the roller pivot of the fork. I used Valvoline Syntech high temperature grease. I couldn't get my fingers in far enough, so I used a combination of an old knife and a piece of 10ga solid wire to apply/spread the grease.
6) Push the release fork back onto the release bearing. This will "pop" on and stay.
7) Put the slave cylinder back onto the bell housing, making sure the ball of it fits into the recess on the release fork. Replace the (2) 12mm bolts and tighten.
8) Lower the car and you are ready to go!
Whatever you do, DO NOT PUSH IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS REMOVED!
[QUOTE]Actually, it's pretty easy.
1) Jack up/raise the car securely. It should be high enough so you can get under it.
2) Remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission.
3) Remove the rubber dust boot from the bell housing and remove the slave cylinder. Support the slave cylinder so that it does not hang from the hose.
4) Pull out the shift fork as far as possible. You will not be able to remove it, as the fork end is larger than the hole where the dust boot was.
5) Put very little high temp grease on the fork and on the roller pivot of the fork. I used Valvoline Syntech high temperature grease. I couldn't get my fingers in far enough, so I used a combination of an old knife and a piece of 10ga solid wire to apply/spread the grease.
6) Push the release fork back onto the release bearing. This will "pop" on and stay.
7) Put the slave cylinder back onto the bell housing, making sure the ball of it fits into the recess on the release fork. Replace the (2) 12mm bolts and tighten.
8) Lower the car and you are ready to go!
Whatever you do, DO NOT PUSH IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS REMOVED!
1) Jack up/raise the car securely. It should be high enough so you can get under it.
2) Remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission.
3) Remove the rubber dust boot from the bell housing and remove the slave cylinder. Support the slave cylinder so that it does not hang from the hose.
4) Pull out the shift fork as far as possible. You will not be able to remove it, as the fork end is larger than the hole where the dust boot was.
5) Put very little high temp grease on the fork and on the roller pivot of the fork. I used Valvoline Syntech high temperature grease. I couldn't get my fingers in far enough, so I used a combination of an old knife and a piece of 10ga solid wire to apply/spread the grease.
6) Push the release fork back onto the release bearing. This will "pop" on and stay.
7) Put the slave cylinder back onto the bell housing, making sure the ball of it fits into the recess on the release fork. Replace the (2) 12mm bolts and tighten.
8) Lower the car and you are ready to go!
Whatever you do, DO NOT PUSH IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS REMOVED!
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