I think I can't put off the clutch replacement much longer or else it is going to start slipping and probably destroy the face of my flywheel. I'll probably go with a stock clutch, but thought I'd ask if there is a better aftermarket alternative. The engine is stock, i don't want a harder clutch pedal and i don't want the clutch to be more grabby at launch. I like the feel of the stock set up. I'm just wondering if there is something that feels the same (or smoother) but performs better.

 

The common setup is the ACT HD pressure plate with an OEM clutch disk. A little more pedal pressure than stock, but it's not bad. Same clutch grab feel as stock.

 

Thanks Chibo. What are the advantages of the ACT plate? Believe it or not, years ago the recommended set-up was the act disc and a stock plate.

 

if youre stock... stay stock... depending on your year, id swap in an AP1 Flywheel... and OEM everything else... but yes as stated above, the ACT/OEM Combo is a winner as well...

 

Stop down.

Have Bill do your clutch.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/delaware...017-a-1177430/

 

I just did my clutch and I used a competition clutch brand clutch and flywheel. I removed my ap1 flywheel if your interested I'm thinking of putting it up forsale if any guys with ap2 want to change theirs out lmk.

 

I just replaced my clutch/flywheel last week, it's not hard but tedious. I went with the Ballade Sports Forced Induction Clutch Kit and their 10lb Flywheel. The pedal is actually lighter than stock, but the clutch engagement is more on/off as you would probably expect.

 

That would be awesome, but it seems a bit far from Boston. I wonder if i can get Bill Man to my neck of the woods???

 

Worth the bribe. Maybe a case of the best local micro-brewed lager?

Good mechanics are worth their weight in titanium.

 

Unless you're boosted, go with the stock clutch. If you want more bite, go with the act pp. Unless your stock pp is damaged, you should just reuse it. They last forever.

I can't overstate the advantages of going with a lighter flywheel, especially if you are ap2 (ap2 = 22 lbs, ap1 = 14 lbs). Either get a used ap1 wheel, or aftermarket chromoly. Don't go less than 8 lbs if you want to retain drivability (stop lights on hills, etc). If you aren't especially skilled at take off with a manual, or others who aren't might sometimes drive your car (SO etc), maybe more like 11 lbs min.

Do not, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT go with an aftermarket clutch disk or aftermarket throw out (aka release) bearing. Otherwise you will be changing clutch again in about 20k miles.

Also, this is also critical to get right, tje correct lube, in the correct places, in the correct amounts, is vital for proper clutch operation. Get this wrong, and disk won't slide om splines well, and you'll be plagued with clutch drag and notchu, crunchy shifts for life of that clutch.

If you bring it to a mechanic, he's gonna be all, I know what I'm doing, done 100's of clutches, and assume he doesn't need to listen to you. Or worse, just think that in his head even as he agrees to do it how you say, then ignore you.

You need to diy, or find someone that you trust will follow the directions as far as lube.