I recently replaced my AP2 clutch with an Exedy OEM Disc and FCC OEM pressure plate. Under heavy acceleration, the pedal is falling to the floor, leading me to believe that the pressure plate does not have enough tension to overcome the centripetal outward force created by the (substantial) weight of the throwout bearing. The clutch is not slipping, but it is as if the throwout bearing is *pulling* the clutch fingers away from the disc, taking the clutch fork and the pedal with it.

Sooo I want to replace this with another pressure plate and possibly disc of quasi-OEM level performance. That is, I dont want or need an ACT super duper SS pressure plate thats chinese made and has 300% greater holding power---that will just wear out the slave cylinder prematurely.

Has anyone purchased a Valeo, Beck Arnley, Daikin-brand or other OEM replacement clutch and had good luck with them?

Thanks!

 

I'm running an SOS Street kit. It's magical. Feels like an OEM but it hooks up like it's made of amazing.

It may not be OEM, but it's as good as with better hookup

 

That seems like a hydraulics issue or an install issue. Have you bled your clutch hydraulics/how does your pedal feel? If the pressure plate fingers can't hold the release bearing to the clutch, your clutch would definitely be slipping as well.

 

Hydraulics are perfect. New master and slave. Shorter stainless line. Bled thoroughly.

As far as the slipping goes, there may be a small amount but its not noticeable from the drivers seat. Interestingly enough, the new 5.0 mustangs are having the same problem and Ford's band-aid fix was to install a stiffer clutch pedal return spring.----this doesnt change the fact that the clutch fork-at the slave- is moving when it shouldn't.

 

Is the release fork and hanger in good shape?

 

Yes. and new fork retention spring. All lubed with moly.

 

Its good to replace the tube that the throw out bearing rides on everytime u replace the clutch! My pedal used to be stiff untill high rpms then it would get soft again like it should of been.

 

Stick a prybar behind the crank pulley and see if the bolt moves in and out. Don't worry about the pulley flexing, just focus on the bolts in and out movement.

 

Thanks for the tip. That scared the daylights out of me, but I think its in spec. I used a long boxed rectangular level stood up vertically on my flat CR steering brace as a point of reference and a feeler guage. After pushing in and prying out for an hour, I couldn't get more than 6 thousandths out of it--certainly not .13 like some people were getting.

The only other variable---I installed a resurfaced toda flywheel. I resurfaced just the contact surface, but only had 3 or 4 thousandths taken off. I have a clutch rebuilder (rerivets PPs and discs) who does work for AMS state that the small change in step height shouldnt be enough to affect tension.