Clutch slipping when car is warm
I've had this problem for about a week now. When i drive my car at first the clutch grabs as it should. Ill do 35mph in 6th gear and give it full throttle. No slipping occurs. After about 10 minutes of driving the clutch will slowly start to slip. After about 30-40 minutes the clutch will slip so bad that i can only give about 10-20 percent throttle without it slipping. If i do the same 6th gear test car will rev like its in neutral almost instantly. Im not sure why i get worse as i go. If i let the car sit and cool down the whole process starts over. By cool down i mean engine off not running for a couple of hours. Any ideas?!?! 05 ap2 with cdv removed for over 30k. Car has 90k on the clock right now.
Ive replaced cmc, bleed clutch, adjusted cmc shaft play and pedal. I havent noticed any oil leaking.
Im thinking maybe rear main seal? Throwout bearing? Ive ordered oem disk, act hd pressure plate, fidanza flywheel, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing. Ill be installing the parts in about a week or 2.
Ive replaced cmc, bleed clutch, adjusted cmc shaft play and pedal. I havent noticed any oil leaking.
Im thinking maybe rear main seal? Throwout bearing? Ive ordered oem disk, act hd pressure plate, fidanza flywheel, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing. Ill be installing the parts in about a week or 2.
My psychic diagnosis is you have adjusted the clutch pedal recently and took out all the slack in the pushrod.
This results in the port that allows fluid back into the reservoir as fluid expands to be blocked. When the fluid heats up and expands its like having your foot resting on the clutch slightly.
When its playing up, crack the bleed nipple on the slave to relieve pressure. If it stops slipping this is your problem. Adjust the clutch pedal so there is no preload on the master piston.
A buildup of dried/corroded fluid and debris around the clutch master cylinder piston/circlip can cause the same issue.
This results in the port that allows fluid back into the reservoir as fluid expands to be blocked. When the fluid heats up and expands its like having your foot resting on the clutch slightly.
When its playing up, crack the bleed nipple on the slave to relieve pressure. If it stops slipping this is your problem. Adjust the clutch pedal so there is no preload on the master piston.
A buildup of dried/corroded fluid and debris around the clutch master cylinder piston/circlip can cause the same issue.
Wow.
I logged to s2ki for the first time in over a year to discuss almost the exact same issue. Your comment was first on the board. Amazing.
2007 AP2, 43k mi on mine. They (Honda dealer) just replaced the master and slave cylinders and adjusted the clutch pedal.
Clutch grabs fine when cold, slips so bad you would think you are in neutral when warmed up.
I will be interested in hearing others thoughts. I just spent ~$600 for the slave cylder(s) replacement, not really looking forward to more costs, especially with 43k miles and I drive the car like a slow grandpa!
I logged to s2ki for the first time in over a year to discuss almost the exact same issue. Your comment was first on the board. Amazing.
2007 AP2, 43k mi on mine. They (Honda dealer) just replaced the master and slave cylinders and adjusted the clutch pedal.
Clutch grabs fine when cold, slips so bad you would think you are in neutral when warmed up.
I will be interested in hearing others thoughts. I just spent ~$600 for the slave cylder(s) replacement, not really looking forward to more costs, especially with 43k miles and I drive the car like a slow grandpa!
At least in my situation (not OP), my clutch shifted absolutely perfectly for all 43k miles I have had the car. It just started slipping after the CMC/CSC replacement and pedal adjustment. That is why I really have a hard time coming to terms with the clutch being the culprit.
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Discs sometimes slip more when heated. Has to do with rivets expanding when warm. With a worn friction surface, these rivets contact the flywheel & pressure plate ---- leading to slipping.
You can see the rivet scar marks on the plate and flywheel. When you look at the disc, at room temp, the rivets are not quite up to the friction surface. I guess the rivets --- when the plate warms to operating temp --- expand to touch the pressure plate and flywheel.
You can see the rivet scar marks on the plate and flywheel. When you look at the disc, at room temp, the rivets are not quite up to the friction surface. I guess the rivets --- when the plate warms to operating temp --- expand to touch the pressure plate and flywheel.
If you adjusted the clutch free play wrong as mentioned above you may have bigger issues. (Clutch Damage) Do you have ANY play at all in the clutch pedal before it engages the rod under the pedal? Push the pedal with your HAND as it is difficult to tell with your foot.








