I am planning to replace the clutch on our 2001 S2000 reading week with my son.

I have a bunch of while we are in there projects:

- Engine mounts
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Engine main seal
- Transmission seal

The latest "while you are in there" that has occurred to me is powder coating the exhaust manifold. Its rusted and bothers me looking at it.

Looking at some youtube videos I see people doing this with VHT. Any advice based on previous experience on this would be appreciated. Is the VHT paint option legit or bring it to a powder coating shop?

Also I have not changed a clutch before. I have watched a number of videos from LHT and DIY guys. I have a four post lift. I also have the S2000 workshop manual.

Any gottachas/advice to avoid mistakes would be much appreciated.

The parts I have:

- OEM Clutch disk
- OEM Pressure plate
- Honda High Temp grease. (i already did the shifter. New everything)
- Engine main seal
- LHT drive shat bolts for AP1
- Transmission seal
- Exhaust manifold gasket
- Walter pump (while in there)
- Thermostat (while in there)
- OEM Engine mounts (while in there)
- Fly wheel: have a machine shop lined up to resurface
- OEM release bearing
- new hardware for the exhaust manifold and heatshield to replace rusted bolts

 

Billman says he's never seen a water pump go bad on these cars. Seems like a needless while you're in there.

I'd also be hesitant to replace the rear main or trans seal, if they aren't leaking. More harm than good is possible.

Also silly to replace mounts of they aren't bad.

I sense you're coming from German car maintenance experiences. Those cars you'd be nuts not to take advantage of while you're in there. That is not at all necessary with these cars.

 

I don't think powder coating an exhaust manifold is a good idea. It will probably just melt / burn away.
Budget solution is using VHT paint.
Expensive solution is ceramic coating.

Clutch change tips:
If the subframe bolts are stuck, don't break them: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un.../#post18717189
Don't forget the top starter bolt (only bolt on engine side to hold transmission) https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...-pics-1115885/

 

How many miles does the car have on it?

Be careful and pay attention to what you're doing when installing the oil seals. I would opt to change them too, on a car with higher mileage.

Also, the water pump and thermostat should be genuine Honda parts, if you're gonna change them.

I'm assuming you bought coolant from Honda too?

No real "gotchas" to changing the clutch, as long as you follow the steps in the factory service manual.

 

add pilot bearing, and release bearing guide

id skip the water pump and thermostat unless it really needs it as it’s on the other side of the car and is accessible, clutch job or not.

 

The OEM exhaust manifold is made of stainless steel to my knowledge? Check it with a magnet. Stainless steel is (almost) non magnetic.
The OEM heat shield can rust, i would galvanize it.

Pictures, maybe?

 

OEM header is very much magnetic, I'm guessing it could be a "lower" 4xx grade stainless though.

 

People allways asked me why my motorcycle "has such a shabby, rusty exhaust" back then when in fact it is stainless steel, just coloured by heat.
At one point i was feed up with explaining and simply replied "Yes, next winter it will buy a new exhaust system..."
Thats why i asked here for pictures.

 

Definitely don't paint or powder coat the header.

VHT header paint is still just a 1K paint. Like any other widely available store bought paint, think of it as makeup rather than an actual coating. It will start to peel and chip and look like shit in a short amount of time.

The stock header is 4xx series stainless. It disolors...but...so what?

If you want an actual coating, send it off for some sort of ceramic type of coat.

 

Here's my parts list from when I did a clutch job last year. The guide, slave boot, and rear main seals were my add-ons. I saw a suggestion to do rear main and trans input shaft seal. Rear main is pretty easy and straightforward so I had it done. Trans input seal was a bit harder to get to, so I chose it wasn't worth the risk to try to do.

OEM Parts
Disk - 22200-PCX-055
PP - 22300-PCX-015
Slave Boot - 22841-PR8-010
TOB - 22810-PCY-003
Guide - 21103-PCY-003
Rear Main - 91214-PCX-003
Urea Grease - 08798-9002
Pilot Bearing - 91006-PCX-008