Competition clutch / flywheel install
#1
Competition clutch / flywheel install
Hi guys im changing my flywheel to a competition clutch flywheel and new clutch
I have the train out and I have a question about the little cover inside the transmission bellhousing.
It was dry as a bone when I removed the transmission at first but then since I didn't have the car high enough while installing the flywheel I left the transmission on its side under the car
a bit of transmission fluid has leaked from this cover (which is also quite dirty looking)
what do you guys think ? is this leaking because I have the transmission on its side?
Should I stop and wait a week for the dealer to get me this gasket?
Can or should I use gasket maker?
Last edited by Royaltrophy; 09-30-2017 at 12:44 PM. Reason: adding pics
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Royaltrophy (09-30-2017)
#4
Don't use "normal" or even "synthetic" grease on clutch splines. It will fling off while separating (oil and grease breaks apart) and contaminate the disc very easily. Even high temp stuff like Redline CV-2 will separate and bleed out badly in my experience. Stick with the Honda Urea grease.
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Royaltrophy (10-01-2017)
#5
After getting everything installed I went to press the clutch pedal and there is nothing, The pedal went straight to the floor.
I didn't open the bleeder, didn't press the clutch pedal when the slave was out and I am pretty sure everything went back together correctly.
It is normal to have to re bleed the slave after a clutch install?
What might be wrong?
*I pulled the slave back off the see if the plunger was making contact with the shift fork and it was but I noticed that I was able to press the slave in with my finger and I could hear fluid rushing up towards the rez.. Is this normal to beable to move the slave plunger by hand if nobody opened the bleeder or removed the cap of the rez?
I'm stuck.
I didn't open the bleeder, didn't press the clutch pedal when the slave was out and I am pretty sure everything went back together correctly.
It is normal to have to re bleed the slave after a clutch install?
What might be wrong?
*I pulled the slave back off the see if the plunger was making contact with the shift fork and it was but I noticed that I was able to press the slave in with my finger and I could hear fluid rushing up towards the rez.. Is this normal to beable to move the slave plunger by hand if nobody opened the bleeder or removed the cap of the rez?
I'm stuck.
#7
Moderator
Don't let the leak under the dash throw you off. Most of them leak. Replacing the clutch fluid and keeping it clean will stop that leak in 95% of cases.
I have had this happen to me numerous times. What causes the clutch pedal to drop to the floor on the first shot is difficult to explain, but the solution is easy. Put it back together, and push the clutch down. If it goes to the floor, lift it up again by hand and try it again. See if it returns to normal.
And yes you will be able to push the slave rod in by hand.
I have had this happen to me numerous times. What causes the clutch pedal to drop to the floor on the first shot is difficult to explain, but the solution is easy. Put it back together, and push the clutch down. If it goes to the floor, lift it up again by hand and try it again. See if it returns to normal.
And yes you will be able to push the slave rod in by hand.
Last edited by Billman250; 10-02-2017 at 01:33 PM.
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Royaltrophy (10-03-2017)
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#8
I pumped the pedal numerous times and every time the pedal drops to the floor as if the pedal needs a rebleed. So Ive just decided to re bleed the clutch as it was time for fluid change anyways, What fluid was actually inside the rez was black as can be. When I opened the rez there was quite literally mud inside there and a line between min and max where mud has left a residue of where it used to be. I sprayed Brake parts cleaner on the whole shebang and tomorrow i'll get some new dot 4. Interestingly enough there was almost no fluid inside the rez. Pretty much completely empty, I could even see the little line hole in the bottom.
Quite Strange how I was able to drive the car before the clutch change and I wonder where it all went to?
Is this empty because the seals inside the master cylinder are gone, and all the fluid is inside the car now?
or is this empty because the dirt has clogged up the seal in the master preventing it from sealing allowing fluid into the car?
Do you think I should open up the circlip inside the master cylinder and clean this out with brake parts cleaner aswell or will the seal be toast once opened?
What do you think? replace the master cylinder, then re bleed and be done with this?
Quite Strange how I was able to drive the car before the clutch change and I wonder where it all went to?
Is this empty because the seals inside the master cylinder are gone, and all the fluid is inside the car now?
or is this empty because the dirt has clogged up the seal in the master preventing it from sealing allowing fluid into the car?
Do you think I should open up the circlip inside the master cylinder and clean this out with brake parts cleaner aswell or will the seal be toast once opened?
What do you think? replace the master cylinder, then re bleed and be done with this?
Last edited by Royaltrophy; 10-02-2017 at 10:22 PM.
#9
Per Billman, most s2000s with leaking master cylinders can be brought back from the dead with clean fluid (and turkey-baste it out at every subsequent oil change). Black fluid is unacceptable.
Unfortunately, mine was part of the 5% that still leaked no matter how much clean fluid I kept in there. I say try his method first before committing to a new master cylinder.
Unfortunately, mine was part of the 5% that still leaked no matter how much clean fluid I kept in there. I say try his method first before committing to a new master cylinder.
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Royaltrophy (10-03-2017)
#10
Thanks Billman and Harry D for your posts. I guess I'm part of this 1% of people who re bleeding with new fluid wouldn't stop the leak aswell....
I re bleed the clutch master cylinder in the morning there was no fluid again, I could see the new clean fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder inside the car again so I decided it was best to buy a new master cylinder and just be done with this... shame I could'nt source a rebuild kit anywhere. Someone mentioned to me that a 96 prelude master cylinder rebuild kit would work but when I called around nobody had any prelude or s2000 rebuild kits just new master cylinders.
Out with the old...
In with the new.
Now time for a break in period with the new clutch, What process do you go thru when breaking in a new clutch and how long?
I re bleed the clutch master cylinder in the morning there was no fluid again, I could see the new clean fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder inside the car again so I decided it was best to buy a new master cylinder and just be done with this... shame I could'nt source a rebuild kit anywhere. Someone mentioned to me that a 96 prelude master cylinder rebuild kit would work but when I called around nobody had any prelude or s2000 rebuild kits just new master cylinders.
Out with the old...
In with the new.
Now time for a break in period with the new clutch, What process do you go thru when breaking in a new clutch and how long?
Last edited by Royaltrophy; 10-04-2017 at 10:49 AM.
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