Compression test
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Troy, NY
Compression test
Bought a CPO 06 recently with 1 year remaining on the factory warranty and four years on the powertrain. It had 27,500 miles when I took ownership. I have since put another 550 miles on it with no issues at all. Car runs smooth and no idiot lights. However, I want to do a compression test per the recommendations here and for peace of mind that I bought a healthy car (no service records from the previous owner were available).
If the car is CPO and isn't giving me problems, am I being paranoid? The car seems to pull well enough, though I've never driven or ridden in another s2k so I probably wouldn't know the difference. Worst nightmare for me would be to find out the car was overreved by the last owner. Could they certify a car that had an overrev error in the ECU, or do they not even pull codes and check for that sort of thing?
What's the optimum range for the F22? 230 - 250 psi? Cost for a compression test? Any insight welcome.
If the car is CPO and isn't giving me problems, am I being paranoid? The car seems to pull well enough, though I've never driven or ridden in another s2k so I probably wouldn't know the difference. Worst nightmare for me would be to find out the car was overreved by the last owner. Could they certify a car that had an overrev error in the ECU, or do they not even pull codes and check for that sort of thing?
What's the optimum range for the F22? 230 - 250 psi? Cost for a compression test? Any insight welcome.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Pasadena, SOCAL
it's around 50-75 per test
there's way too much method and operator's error to compare number, it's generally around 200ish and the thing to look for is consistent number, a 5-8% is a good goal.
different gauge read differently, different temp read differently, so does the number of crank, battery condition and present of sparkplugs in the other cylinder.
a mild overrev will probably not shown in a compression test, however the valve could be damage and can be drop overtime if not taken care of. pulling the VC and manual inspection is recommended for those.
there's way too much method and operator's error to compare number, it's generally around 200ish and the thing to look for is consistent number, a 5-8% is a good goal.
different gauge read differently, different temp read differently, so does the number of crank, battery condition and present of sparkplugs in the other cylinder.
a mild overrev will probably not shown in a compression test, however the valve could be damage and can be drop overtime if not taken care of. pulling the VC and manual inspection is recommended for those.
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Do it.
I just bought an GPW 2006 S2k. Car drove smoothly, and the only indication something was wrong was a misfire on cyl. 3 code, and a slightly rough idle. power and acceleration were strong and smooth.
After I put in new spark plugs, moved around the coils and injectors, and the misfire still stayed on cyl. 3, I worried. Got a compression test done ($54 and 30 min.), and cylinder 1/2/3/4 went 220/186/130/220.
220 is what you should see. All 4 number should be within 10% of each other, so seeing something like 200/196/200/202 on one engine would be ok. 220/186/130/220 is not.
Get it done - peace of mind is priceless. Leaking compression can be stealthy, too.
I just bought an GPW 2006 S2k. Car drove smoothly, and the only indication something was wrong was a misfire on cyl. 3 code, and a slightly rough idle. power and acceleration were strong and smooth.
After I put in new spark plugs, moved around the coils and injectors, and the misfire still stayed on cyl. 3, I worried. Got a compression test done ($54 and 30 min.), and cylinder 1/2/3/4 went 220/186/130/220.
220 is what you should see. All 4 number should be within 10% of each other, so seeing something like 200/196/200/202 on one engine would be ok. 220/186/130/220 is not.
Get it done - peace of mind is priceless. Leaking compression can be stealthy, too.
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Lower Mainland
Originally Posted by Mark355,Sep 2 2009, 10:13 AM
Did the test this morning at Firestone.
230/235/230/230
Very glad I did it. Big weight off my mind!
230/235/230/230
Very glad I did it. Big weight off my mind!
I've wanted to do a compression test ever since I bought my car 2.5 years ago but it pulls just as hard as other s2k's and just as fast if not faster on a track so there is probably no need... Glad you got peace of mind though.
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From: Pasadena, SOCAL
Originally Posted by s2kobsession,Sep 2 2009, 12:14 PM
I've wanted to do a compression test ever since I bought my car 2.5 years ago but it pulls just as hard as other s2k's and just as fast if not faster on a track so there is probably no need... Glad you got peace of mind though.
<--135k here and pulls great compression number, thank you honda
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165k and still runs strong. 200 across all cylinders. to those with low pressures, try a can of 4cylinder restore in the oil. works great for oil burn, compressions. at one time mine was 180/175/167/135. used restore and they evened up. great product!
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From: San Antonio TX
Originally Posted by YELLOW JACKET,Sep 6 2009, 06:01 PM
165k and still runs strong. 200 across all cylinders. to those with low pressures, try a can of 4cylinder restore in the oil. works great for oil burn, compressions. at one time mine was 180/175/167/135. used restore and they evened up. great product!
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: FAR BEYOND THE WHEEL...
I did the test a few months ago. Just get an autozone gauge for $40.
Mine were 240psi in each, car is an '00 w/ 24,000 miles at the time.
Heres how to do it (instructions taken from somewhere, I dont remember who posted originally)
How to Check compression
Instructions:
1) First warm up the car until the fans turn on. AKA Drive the car for a 20 minutes.
2) take out the spark plug/ignition coil cover (4 allen screws/mm)
3) take out the coils (10mm screws)
4) disconect the fuel injector plugs (that way they don't pulse during the test allowing fuel into the engine)
6)Take out all spark plugs
5)Screw the compression test gauge line into cylinder #1 (make sure you are using the right tread adapter/hand tight)
6)With the transmission in neutral and opening the throttle full crank (start) the engine and keep cranking until the gauge needle doesn't go up any more. Always remember to have the throttle at WOT.
7) Check it twice and move to the next cylinder.
8) When you have tested all cylinders put everything back in reverse order.
Mine were 240psi in each, car is an '00 w/ 24,000 miles at the time.
Heres how to do it (instructions taken from somewhere, I dont remember who posted originally)
How to Check compression
Instructions:
1) First warm up the car until the fans turn on. AKA Drive the car for a 20 minutes.
2) take out the spark plug/ignition coil cover (4 allen screws/mm)
3) take out the coils (10mm screws)
4) disconect the fuel injector plugs (that way they don't pulse during the test allowing fuel into the engine)
6)Take out all spark plugs
5)Screw the compression test gauge line into cylinder #1 (make sure you are using the right tread adapter/hand tight)
6)With the transmission in neutral and opening the throttle full crank (start) the engine and keep cranking until the gauge needle doesn't go up any more. Always remember to have the throttle at WOT.
7) Check it twice and move to the next cylinder.
8) When you have tested all cylinders put everything back in reverse order.