you asked if the dipstick worked or not, if the motor's still hot and the oil hasn't recirculated to the bottom of the pan, you wouldn't get an accurate reading anyways. thats what i was saying

 

per most manuals, one should check the oil level at every gas fill-up and makes no mention of letting the car cool down for an accurate oil reading.

 

I think when you check it at the station they just want to make sure that the level is at best average. When you check it at the station when the motor is hot you dont get AS good AS a cold check. But checking it hot is better then not checking it at all.

 

if that's how you guys do things, that's fine. I've never had an issue with oil levels doing it my way (on days before I start the car and oil's fully recirculated to the bottom).

As mentioned I checked the oil several times prior to the incident and it was fine. I also knew for a fact that it didn't leak a profuse amount of oil after I torqued the allen bolt down, and I know it didn't burn a quart in 5 minutes without me noticing. I dumped that extra quart in as a precaution, but after returning home and the oil change I seriously doubt the damage was done during my trip to the gas station. But in either case (whether it was my fault or not), the damage is done and the motor is coming out and apart.

Edit:: Also, like I mentioned in the earlier posts, it still has no audible knock (that i know of, since i'm not gonna be driving it or revving it higher looking for the knock noise), it could have been this way for awhile truthfully but at this point it doesn't matter anymore.

 

This thread has some pictures of metal flakes in the oil pan for your reference. I had a f22 crank that had a bearing spun, I had it reground. Cost me $90 at the local machine shop. You will need to run oversize bearings but they work fine. Ive been running the crank at 16 psi boost for over a year with no problems. At 180k though I imagine you might want to do a complete rebuild.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...c=732173&st=75

 

Thanks for the help Alloy Craft, and yes I'm familiar with the reground as an option explained by my machinist when I brought in a spun-bearing H22 awhile back.

I think given that these cranks are fairly cheap independently from people who have had spark plugs drop, I'm going with a crank from another F20C1, new bearings, and new rings. oh and new gasket/seals of course

I got lucky that a member on another webforum happens to be working in a performance shop now. I'm hopefully trading my extra project car in the garage that hasn't ran for a year for the labor/parts/etc. fingers crossed, will find out tomorrow and hopefully be on the road to getting the S2k running again.

 

Pull your oil pump apart to make sure that pieces of bearings haven't been eaten by the rotors ( lots of scoring in the housing and tips of rotors). Also check that none of them are jamming the pressure relief piston. I find the slivers of bearing are very good and getting wedged between the piston and bore and can jam the relief valve open.