So a couple of days ago I started my car and blip the accelerator to sort of speed up the warm up process... And as the rpms rose to about 1-1.5k they stayed there for about 1-2 secs after I let go. Is that normal?

 

If you had just turned the car on it should be idling @ around 1.5k until it warms up then it eventually drops around 900-1000rpms.

You sure you meant 1-1.5k?

Did you flip your AC on?

 

a/c was off. I'm not talking about a problem with the idle? I was talking about the problem with how long the revs took to drop. If i would blip the throttle it would just stay at what ever rpm it hit then stay for like 1-2 secs after i let go.

 

if the car is high idle then normal yes. When the car is warm and it still does it, check your throttle body return spring

 

I'm having this exact same problem after installing an aftermarket, larger DBW throttle body on my 06+. I never had the problem before. There is absolutely no delay on GIVING it gas, but when I let up off the gas at any RPM, the revs stay there for 1-2 seconds before going back down.

Since it's a DBW unit, does anyone know if the problem is more likely mechanical or electronic?

 

Totally normal, if the car is cold.

 

Don't blip the throttle, drive the car.

You'll get 1.5 to 2k high idle depending on engine temp at start up. High idle protects both oil pressure damage and bad timing (ultra cold).

However revving the snot or blipping the throttle serves no purpose. Stop it. Instead if the car is really cold, drive it. Just remember to shift by about 3-4k until the car is warmed up. Everyone focuses on engine temp but remember other components need to warm up to. Like tranny or diff, which if you blow are equally expensive to a new motor.

 

I'm not just talking about blipping the throttle. ANY form of deceleration has a delay, regardless of temps (ala, after an hour-long highway cruise). This makes traffic extremely frustrating, because letting up on the gas to begin smoothly decelerating results in a delay, which generally translates into jerky motion. Rev-match downshifts are also virtually impossible now, for whatever that's worth.

 

same issue w/ mine ever since i installed my SOS kit w/ a SOS 70mm TB. Didn't do it at first but now its just as you guys speak about.

 

What year is your S? It's it drive by wire? If it is, did you ever get a tune? I'm wondering if I can fix it with hondata. So far, I've just been trying to get used to it.