Diff Overflow drain/valve where is it located
I just get my car out of storage about 2 weeks ago, drove down to Nashville, and a little around my home town (no more than 300miles) I go in today to do a few checks before the Dragon, and I have 2 nickle size spots of fresh diff fluid on the garage floor.
I traced the blow back and it appears to be coaming from (bare with me) where the drive shaft connects with the diff. there is a silver washer like piece on the end of the drive shaft, with a small gap between it and the "black" diff area.
Like I said, I just had it changed before winter (Sept/Oct ish) it's been setting un moved until about 2 weeks ago, and I have the 4.57s with Reinforced housing if that may make a difference.
No abnormal sounds noted, just 2 little spots, Do you guys think it is just overflow?
I traced the blow back and it appears to be coaming from (bare with me) where the drive shaft connects with the diff. there is a silver washer like piece on the end of the drive shaft, with a small gap between it and the "black" diff area.
Like I said, I just had it changed before winter (Sept/Oct ish) it's been setting un moved until about 2 weeks ago, and I have the 4.57s with Reinforced housing if that may make a difference.
No abnormal sounds noted, just 2 little spots, Do you guys think it is just overflow?
Originally Posted by NVMY4N,Apr 14 2006, 03:01 PM
Do you guys think it is just overflow?
I would say #31 in this link:
http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.asp?Mod...&ViewParts=true
Well, it doesn't look like it's gushing out of there. You have about 750cc of fluid in there. A drop would constitute about less than 1/10th of a cc. If you kept an eye on it and it doesn't come out of there in any large amount, sure, you can drive it for a while. Remember, as the diff gets hot, the fluid inside will thin out and flow better and hence, possibly leak better.
I can guarantee that it will get hot at the Dragon.....I have no clue on what to do now.
Do you have any idea on how long it would take to replace....and are there any other parts I will have to replace once it's taken apart.
Do you have any idea on how long it would take to replace....and are there any other parts I will have to replace once it's taken apart.
With the right tools (like in a shop) that seal could be changed in about an hour. Propshaft gets disconnected, lock nut come off, flange pulls off, dig out the old seal, pound in new seal, put it all back together with new locknut. Oh, this is assuming you are right about where it's coming from.
The thing is, I'm sure you've gotten the hot just during dailing driving and at the end of the day, sitting where it's parked, all you've lost is 2 little drops. I don't think it'll leak any more than it already has.
The thing is, I'm sure you've gotten the hot just during dailing driving and at the end of the day, sitting where it's parked, all you've lost is 2 little drops. I don't think it'll leak any more than it already has.
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You make another very good point. I just don't know if I want to risk it.....but I think I may have too. I'm just worried I'd blow the diff over a $10 part, and I doubt anywhere around my area would have this in stock.
Thanks a lot xviper, I really do appreciate you quick responses.
Thanks a lot xviper, I really do appreciate you quick responses.
The pinion seal is the only part that keeps gear oil inside from the front of the diff housing.
If the diff was very overfull of oil, you may see some seepage from the vent on top of the back housing.
The issue with doing an in car seal swap is getting the pinion nut preload exactly where it was before taking it apart. If you don't get it just right it can not preload the pinion bearings causing a failure, or pull the pinion away from the ring gear to far and mess up the gear contact pattern, causing a very noisy gearset and possible another failure.
How long has the 4.57 been in the car? You may want to contact whomever assembled it to see if there is a warranty on the pinon seal.
The other issue that would need to be checked is to look for a groove on the pinion gear where the seal rides. If it's grooved the leak won't stop until the gear is replaced.
Given the fairly small amount of fluid that has leaked, I'd clean it up (non-clorinated brake cleaner works the best) and keep a very close eye on it's leakage rate.
Keep the diff topped off for the Dragon next week, and get it fixed ASAP when it's over.
If the diff was very overfull of oil, you may see some seepage from the vent on top of the back housing.
The issue with doing an in car seal swap is getting the pinion nut preload exactly where it was before taking it apart. If you don't get it just right it can not preload the pinion bearings causing a failure, or pull the pinion away from the ring gear to far and mess up the gear contact pattern, causing a very noisy gearset and possible another failure.
How long has the 4.57 been in the car? You may want to contact whomever assembled it to see if there is a warranty on the pinon seal.
The other issue that would need to be checked is to look for a groove on the pinion gear where the seal rides. If it's grooved the leak won't stop until the gear is replaced.
Given the fairly small amount of fluid that has leaked, I'd clean it up (non-clorinated brake cleaner works the best) and keep a very close eye on it's leakage rate.
Keep the diff topped off for the Dragon next week, and get it fixed ASAP when it's over.






