different calipers with stock 16" wheels
As the title suggests has anyone fitted different brake calipers whilst keeping the stock 16" wheels?
I want to do a brake upgrade but don't particularly want to change wheels but choice seems be non existent from my searches.
Any input much appreciated.
I want to do a brake upgrade but don't particularly want to change wheels but choice seems be non existent from my searches.
Any input much appreciated.
Why do you want to do a brake upgrade? OEM system is pretty good except it needs more heat capacity. You won't get more heat capacity unless you go bigger brakes which won't fit under the stock 16s.
If you just want bling, I believe the Spoon monoblock should fit under the stock 16s with added benefit of ability to quick change pads.
If you just want bling, I believe the Spoon monoblock should fit under the stock 16s with added benefit of ability to quick change pads.
I've currently got EBC turbo grooved discs and red stuff pads all round with braided lines and the fluid is only 7 months old. I'm not massively fussed about the look of the brakes I'd rather the performance than the look, looking nice is just a bonus.
When my S2000 was off the road (Blown Engine) I had an Octavia VRS with EBC discs and red stuff pads had much better performing brakes both in terms of stopping power and lack of fade and that was a heavier car. I also currently have, alongside the S2000, a BMW X5 all 2.3 tonnes of which stops better with standard discs and pads.
I never felt like the S2000 brakes were a 'problem' until I had the VRS & X5.
When my S2000 was off the road (Blown Engine) I had an Octavia VRS with EBC discs and red stuff pads had much better performing brakes both in terms of stopping power and lack of fade and that was a heavier car. I also currently have, alongside the S2000, a BMW X5 all 2.3 tonnes of which stops better with standard discs and pads.
I never felt like the S2000 brakes were a 'problem' until I had the VRS & X5.
The role of brakes is to convert energy into heat. Since most braking systems of an excess of capacity (they can lock the tires or engage abs), the only way to improve stopping distance is to upgrade tires.
Only if you are regularly exceeding the systems heat capacity is a brake upgrade warranted. Typically exceeding that capacity is unrealistic on the street.
But it seems what you are really describing is the brake feel. Initial bite, pedal feel, etc. Assuming everything is in proper working order, that is a function of pad composition, and to some extent, the leverage afforded by the ratio of master cylinder piston diameter vs caliper piston sizes.
My diagnosis, either you have air in the lines (perhaps introduced during the 'upgrade' to braided lines - a performance downgrade if you don't get all the air out, which is notoriously difficult), or your pad choice is not working for your needs.
Its probably a good idea to note that the same brand and style of pads that suit you perfectly on one car might not be ideal on another platform.
Step 1, properly bleed your brakes abd replace fluid with something fresh.
Step 2, if still not satisfied, research pad options that suit your needs.
Step 3, do more leg days. Learn to press harder.
Often modern cars are created with artificially added leverage within the system, to give the impression of superior braking capacity. A mere touch of the pedal brings heavy stopping power. The downside of this is difficulty modulating forces under heavy braking. Modern cars rely on abs as a substitute for driver skill.
A performance car will deliberately have less leverage built into the system. To get maximum stopping force requires more pedal effort. Learn to press harder.
Only if you are regularly exceeding the systems heat capacity is a brake upgrade warranted. Typically exceeding that capacity is unrealistic on the street.
But it seems what you are really describing is the brake feel. Initial bite, pedal feel, etc. Assuming everything is in proper working order, that is a function of pad composition, and to some extent, the leverage afforded by the ratio of master cylinder piston diameter vs caliper piston sizes.
My diagnosis, either you have air in the lines (perhaps introduced during the 'upgrade' to braided lines - a performance downgrade if you don't get all the air out, which is notoriously difficult), or your pad choice is not working for your needs.
Its probably a good idea to note that the same brand and style of pads that suit you perfectly on one car might not be ideal on another platform.
Step 1, properly bleed your brakes abd replace fluid with something fresh.
Step 2, if still not satisfied, research pad options that suit your needs.
Step 3, do more leg days. Learn to press harder.
Often modern cars are created with artificially added leverage within the system, to give the impression of superior braking capacity. A mere touch of the pedal brings heavy stopping power. The downside of this is difficulty modulating forces under heavy braking. Modern cars rely on abs as a substitute for driver skill.
A performance car will deliberately have less leverage built into the system. To get maximum stopping force requires more pedal effort. Learn to press harder.
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