That is a process similar to sandblasting, using glass beads to give it a rougher surface and oil will show up more readily.

 

I wouldn't say that an urban myth. I have an ap1 with a semi-fresh top end rebuild. If I change the oil with mobile one I start burning after 500 miles then burn about 1qt every 1000 miles. With castrol synthetic I don't burn a drop for the first 1000 miles, then burn about 1 quart every 2000 miles. AP2 must be different, but this has been true with both me and my mechanic (specializes in S2000).

Anyways, you ran a bit low on oil. Check it every fill up until you know your car. These machines need care and loving.

 

" That is a process similar to sandblasting, using glass beads to give it a rougher surface and oil will show up more readily. "



Danke!

 

This thread actually prompted me to try the glsss beading of the dipstick. Try it guys the difference is amazing.

 

That is a great idea Bill !

 

How do I find a place to glass bead the dipstick, or is it a do it yourself thing?

 

If you have a compressor you can buy small diy kits at auto parts stores, nothing too elaborate needed.

 

Many of us, even avid diy'ers, don't have access to a bead blaster. So I'm wondering if a similar effect could be achieved by just scuffing up the plastic end of the dipstick using, say, a scotch brite pad?

Thoughts?

 

Maybe use a coarse sandpaper to scuff it up ?, the s2000 dipstick is all metal , other than the top handle area. I thought painting the lower portion white might work, but paint probably would not last very long in that environment.

You can get lots of affordable small sand blasting kits, see below

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/sandblasting-kit

 

Hand sanding will be a waste of time (like the tct ). The sandpaper wont reach the lower surface.

If you know of anyone who powder coats, they can sand blast or bead blast it for you. Just do the entire read area of the dipstick. The shine of the new oil has a large contrast over the new dull dipstick making reading simple.