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Is there a firmware update for the device? v39.02 came out 5 years ago and I'm sure it's been upgraded (maybe a dozen times) since then.
-- Chuck
The firmware is locked and is not updatable unfortunately. If you look at my pictures both the software version and database version are exactly the same as the OPs. The only difference seems to be the update date (2017 vs 2016). It is not clear what this date even means really.
There are different versions of the CK-100 which do have software versions like 46.02 though.
I was able to use another persons's CK 100 with success on my AP1 with an AP2 engine/ECU swap. The CK 100 was updated in 2018.
It took me about ten tries until I was able to get it to work. I filmed the experience and the exact moment that I was able to get it to work so hopefully this helps others that are having difficulty. You can tell when you get the timing right because the green key icon will flash rapidly. Also, wanted to say that I've been unable to get this tool to work on an 06+
I'm looking to replace keys I never got from the previous owner and luckily have access to a Launch unit to program the immobilizer thru the DLC green plug (car is very early jdm model and has no obd port).
Is there a different in chip type based on YOM ?
I see that earlier first generation cars 99-02 tend to have a different chipset (T44 ?) versus the chipset (T5). Would either of these types (non oem) have to be cloned or can they be added to the system as purchased ?
Someone should start a rental program for a small fee, so we can all program our own keys/ecus
I only got 1 key when I bought my car +5 years ago.
I bought a blank genuine oem Honda ap1-compatible key on eBay around the time I bought the car; but just haven't found time/motivation to get it cut/programmed ever since.
This is a great DIY and also thanks to Soviet for posting the video.
I have a German S2k MY2001 and tried this procedure without luck. The CK-100's 'Honda' category does not have the S2k. The 'Honda USA' category does but I was not able to connect to the ECU. I've posted pictures of my CK-100 version. The only difference I see is the later 'update date'.
Last edited by Luxs2k; Apr 24, 2020 at 10:41 AM.
Reason: took out non relevant info about issues with dealer coding.
I tried the add a key option, and kept getting, ECU not found. Is that normal or is
Originally Posted by wooward
When I first got my 2004 S2000 (in 2013), I only received 1 key. I went to the Honda dealership and bought/cut another key (35113-S9A-A01) for $30. I never got around to programming it since they wanted something like $50-$100 to do it. I finally decided to do it and discovered you can do it yourself if you have the right equipment. I bought a CK-100 for ~$100 off eBay. You can find them on Amazon too. For the S2000, the CK-100 erases all the keys stored in your ECU and then adds in all the ones you want. You must have all keys present when you use it. There are other programmers (Honda dealer) that can just add 1 key without having to erase all the keys in the ECU, but the CK-100 is not one of them (for S2000 anyways).
How most immobilizers work? Your car keeps a database of allowed keys in the ECU. If it detects a key in the database, you can start the car. If it detects a key not in the database, it does not start. Example 1: Your car's database has Key "A", "B", and "C" stored as allowed. You buy a new key "K". When you put key "K" into your car, it sees "K" is not in the database and thus does not start. You need to program the car's ECU to allow Key "A", "B", "C", and "K". Example 2: Your car's database has Key "A", "B", and "C" stored as allowed. You buy a new key "N". You clone key "N" to contain the same data as key "A". Now you essentially have two key "A". When you put the new key into your car, it sees "A" and starts. You never had to touch the car's ECU because it already allows key "A".
Technical Aside: Most keys with immobilizers utilize passive RFID technology. Essentially, the RFID reader (your car) sends out an electromagnetic pulse. The passive RFID chip (your key) has an antenna that uses this pulse to power itself. It then modifies the pulse to send it's information back to the reader. This means that there is no battery in your key to power the chip.
CK-100 programmer. Attaches to your OBD-2 port and powers via standard 110V outlet. Attachment 76186
This is the SW version on my unit. v99.99 is the most current version as of Feb 2017. Attachment 76187
Choose Immobilizer from the first menu to program your keys to the ECU Attachment 76188
Select your year S2000, I chose 03-05 since I have an 04 Attachment 76190
The CK-100 operates on a "token" system. Basically, you can use the CK-100 till you run out of tokens. Each task you perform with the unit costs a certain amount of tokens. After that, you need to buy a new CK-100 chip for new tokens. A new CK-100 comes with 1024 tokens. I think this screen is saying that it will cost me 8 tokens to program the S2000 ECU. However, it actually only used 1 as you'll see later. I've read that it cost 8 tokens each key for a Ford Explorer so it definitely varies by vehicle. Attachment 76191
Not sure if you need an existing working key for this but I would assume so. I used my existing working key. Attachment 76192
I chose to see how many keys were in my ECU before I erased it. Attachment 76193
Here you need to look at your dash and see if the green key light is blinking or not. If it is blinking, it didn't finish correctly. Mine did not finish correctly the first time. I think I was too slow since I was taking photos. If the green key does not show at all, you are good to go. Attachment 76208
Notice green key at bottom. (this photo was taken a day later to show the green key icon) Attachment 76209
If the procedure did not complete (Green key icon blinks), select No. You have 3 tries before it consumes your token. Select Yes once your are successful.
Only took 1 token from me to perform this procedure. Attachment 76211
Here is a bug I believe. If you select yes, you can put in customer info (Last name, First name, vehicle info). However, after putting that info in, I couldn't exit the screen. I was stuck. I unplugged the CK-100. After I did that, only the first key I programmed worked. I then started over again and selected No the second time around. 1 more token used. Attachment 76212
And that's it. I now have 2 working keys and a programmer to use on other cars in the future if I need it. Sure it cost more than the $50 at my local locksmith/dealer but it was more fun to do it myself. Assuming you use 1 token each time and pay $100 for the CK-100, this ends up costing you 9.8 cents each S2000 you program lol
I tried add a key option, and keep getting, ecu not found.. Is my programmer defective?
lol