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DIY Test Pipe Install

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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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From: Carrollton GA
Default DIY Test Pipe Install

Picked up a used T1R Test Pipe for $100 and went to install it today to compiment my HKS Hi-Po.

You will need the following tools
-Your favorite jacks/jackstands
-12mm deep socket (for the spring bolts)
-14 mm socket
-12mm wrench
-14mm wrench
-O2 sensor socket ($10 at Auto Zone, 7/8" / 22mm IIRC)
-Mechanical O2 Sim (Search for the DIY)
-PB Blaster
-Zip Ties
-Wire snippers
-Exhaust gasket
-Donut Gasket (I reused mine with no problems)
-a small c-clamp
-Beer

I didn't take pictures as my camera was dead but it's self explanitory. I'm a mechanical noob but once you get under the car then you'll figure it out. There's only 5 bolts and the sensor.

First get your car in the air and on jack stands on the passenger side.

Spray ALL bolts LIBERALLY with PB Blaster, let the exhaust cool off if it's warm and go grab a cold beer

Unbolt the rear of the catalytic convertor, there are 3 14mm bolts. Don't unhook the cat yet as you don't want it falling with the sensor still plugged in.

Next use your O2 sensor socket and take the O2 sensor. It's got a long slit on the socket to thread the wire through but you'll probably have to take it off a few times to straighten up the wire and keep it from getting twisted.

Let the sensor hang down but don't let it bang against anything. They're not the cheapest thing in the world to replace.

Next up, unbolting the 12mm spring bolts up front. You'll need to put a wrench and the 12mm deep socket on these. After 70k miles mine were pretty corroded but they came off easily.

Hopefully by now you've got your cat off, and it's probably a good time for a cold beer.

Now hold the pipe up and line it up. Line up your gaskets, preferably new ones but reusing the old ones won't hurt. Place the new bolts in at the rear of the cat and just thread the nuts on enough to keep it from falling off.

Now comes the hardest part, getting the spring bolts back on. I used a c-clamp to press the area together which helped some. You will have to use a bit of force to push the springs down enough to get the nut threaded on. I used the ratchet with the the 12mm deep socket to press the bolt down in order to save my hand from taking the damage. Once you get it threaded enough to hold for a sec, place the wrench on the other end and tighten it up enough so that the nut won't fly off when you let go. Getting the first one on is the hardest, the second one isn't too bad now that the pipe's are pushed together some now. Once you get the second one on keep alternating between the two, tightening each a few twists until they're both tightened completely.

Now you probably need the rest of the beer but you're in the home stretch and you probably want to be sober for the test drive. All that's left is hooking the O2 sensor with mechanical O2 sim up and lowering the car. For my test pipe it was angled slightly to the left and down which I didn't like but there are no clearance issues. I did have to make some extra slack on the wire itself but this was easy enough. I just took some needle nose pliers, and if you follow the wire, you will notice there are two plastic clips holding it to the body. Pull those loose and you should have plenty of slack.

Now just double check all bolts are tightened up, don't forget the 3 14mms at the rear of the car, and crank the car up. If there are no leaks then shut it off and zip tie the O2 sensor wire back where the OEM clips were and lower the car to the ground.

Now you're good to go! Enjoy the new growl your car has picked up and if you're not worn out or drunk then take it for a spin.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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With as many of these as have been done, I am surprised that there isn't a write up under the DIY and FAQ's:

How to remove your stock exhaust
Installing a Fujitsubo cat back exhaust

Header (Toda) installation
Mugen Header, Thermostat, Fanswitch install with pics
Another One

Maybe we need to add this one.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by gomarlins3,Feb 27 2007, 11:01 PM
With as many of these as have been done, I am surprised that there isn't a write up under the DIY and FAQ's:

How to remove your stock exhaust
Installing a Fujitsubo cat back exhaust

Header (Toda) installation
Mugen Header, Thermostat, Fanswitch install with pics
Another One

Maybe we need to add this one.
That's what surprised me as well. I wish I had taken some pictures to go along with it but like I mentioned, it's straight forward. Anyone can figure it out from looking at the catback install if they're really worried about the difficulty of it. If you can install a catback then you can install a test pipe. Regardless, I hope this helps someone out
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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After you install the test pipe, does it change the exhaust note (if you have a stock exhaust) and if so, is it a raspy sound??
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Very nice...I need some talking into to get a testpipe. The only guy who seems to have one locally doesn't have it installed yet! I wanna hear, feel, and smell it before I take the plunge.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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TP install isn't very difficult. I've done two. I didn't have a problem with the spring bolts on either.. hand pressure was plenty to get them threaded.

The trickiest part was getting the O2 sensor to unscrew.. the way its clipped on makes it very difficult to unscrew all the way (for fear or ripping the wire), and the clips are a royal PITA to unhook.. with some prying and cursing you should be able to unscrew it without unclipping (just barely!).. maybe I'm retarded but I can never get those things to unhook (yes I know how they work)

The most difficult part is removing the damn rusted bolts.. an air gun works WONDERS here.

I would HIGHLY suggest you generously coat the spring bolts (the other bolts should be supplied with your TP in stainless steel) with vasoline or anti sieze.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by REV_29K,Feb 27 2007, 11:56 PM
After you install the test pipe, does it change the exhaust note (if you have a stock exhaust) and if so, is it a raspy sound??
It makes it slightly louder and just a little hint of rasp. The biggest thing is the mean growl it gives my HKS exhaust now. It sounds like this now, http://www.hksusa.com/info/media.asp?id=1760 except slightly louder.


[QUOTE=MikeyCB,Feb 28 2007, 12:03 AM]Very nice...I need some talking into to get a testpipe.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by skippy,Feb 28 2007, 12:42 AM
what are these hooks you are talking about? Just unscrew everything and screw it back in. It isnt rocket science if you can see under the car you should be able to figure out how to unscrew 5 bolts and an o2 sensor. It seems like $100 for used TP is a lost of money.
I think he is referring to the wire harness on the O2 sensor.

The cheapest new T1R test pipe I found was $140+

I got it $40 cheaper, no shipping, and it's in good condition. Gains are unknown on my setup but I enjoy how it sounds now and it SEEMS faster but without a dyno then who knows. I've seen the other posts with various dynos and they all vary on the gains shown. It's more useful in a FI setup but I have yet to see any dyno's showing a loss of power resulting from a test pipe in NA setups.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by skippy,Feb 28 2007, 01:04 AM
wow i never realized the T1R was that expensive. I guess $100 is a good buy then When i did my Tp install i never even saw the hook-unhook part of it. I just did the unscrew part and then twisted the O2 sensor back up and let it screw itself back on. Good write up though. Didnt mean to sound like i was bashing
It's all good, I just felt like contributing something that I felt the site was lacking.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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good write up tp install is a pretty straight forward one.
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