FYI this is a lot easier than you think. I have very very little wrenching experience (started doing my own oil changes and stuff just a few months ago) and was able to follow the instructions in the manual. Just a bunch of simple steps in sequence. I did it in a parking lot in one day's worth of time. There is definite risk, so be sure to triple check everything. I pulled the cams and rocker assembly -- took pictures of TDC to be certain when I put it back together I could reference it. I also used the Lisle keeper removal tool, which worked great! While I do recommend the that F20 valve spring compressor tool over a generic one, you will actually have to modify that slightly to use it with the intake manifold in place. Ridiculous that they ask $90 for a specific tool that isn't even properly sized... I also found rope was annoying to use as it kept getting caught on the lip where the spark plug washer rests, and we needed a good air compressor anyway. I put the transmission in 6th to stop the crankshaft from rotating -- just make sure you take it out of gear before you try going for TDC on the next cylinder. Also, make sure if you take the rocker assembly out to keep it all together, apply inward force to stop them from getting loose, and keep it LEVEL/don't tilt it over or pins can fall out.

One thing I'm a little curious about, the cam chain sprocket was ever so slightly a bit clockwise. Is this normal, or is the TCT not tight enough?

 

Just used this thread over the weekend. Got my retainers swapped out, thanks. After you do the first one it gets easier. Everything went smoothly.

 

@ s2kwave: maybe your timing chain is starting to wear and is a little bit stretched. How many miles on the engine?

 

Hard to truly tell from the camera angle but your cam timing looks just fine.

 

I just swapped out my retainers and keepers on my AP1 and wanted to share my experience.

I bought the following tools below to help complete the job. (I am firm believer in having the right tool for the right job)

• Valve Spring Compressor Tool
  • The little screwdriver with the magnetic at the end was extremely useful.
  • Note: I did not have to grind down anything to make the tool fit on the F20C.
• Valve Keeper Remover Tool
  Valve Keeper Remover Tool
  • Only used to remove the old retainers and keepers. The impact/shock from the hammer helps feel up the old retainers and keepers.
• Valve Holder Air Compressor Tool
  Valve Holder Air Compressor Tool
  • On my air compressor I set the regulator to 25 psi when I pull the trigger on my air gun.
  • 25 psi was still enough to move the crankshaft bolt so have a ratchet with a 19mm socket on the crankshaft bolt to prevent it from moving.

A pro tip that I found online was to make a TDC indexing tool to find TDC for each of the cylinders.

• After you set TDC on cylinder 1, I used (2) wooden skewer to make an indexing tool.
• The blue painters tape was marked to indicate when the cylinder reached its highest point.

The only issue that I ran into was re-installing the bottom camshaft caps, the rockers kept falling down which prevented me from seating the bottom camshaft caps flush to the head. (The rockers rest on top of the valves)

• This step is nerve-racking because you need to be extremely careful—there are pins inside the rocker arms that can easily fall out if you don't have the ends pushed together.
• Resolution: I used zip ties to hold the rocker assemble together and then cut them once I had them in place. (See photo below)

Valve Compressor Tool


AP2 vs AP1 Retainers (notice how the AP2 has a chamfer where I highlighted in red)


TDC Indexing Tool

 

Well done. This is great to see.

I have all the parts and tools, but still lacking the nerve to actually tackle the job.

 

Ok, newest update. IT IS POSSIBLE to crack the exhaust side retainers. I just replaced them on an AP1. I put in OEM AP1's on the exhaust side and AP2's on the intake side. He miss shifted in 2019 valves bent and shop replaced the retainers on the #3 that the valves bent on but NOT THE REST OF THEM! Yeah, I know...........why not?

So luckily they didn't split and fail. Talk about a ticking timebomb!

 

Amazing! I will be performing this next weekend, I'm excited!

 

Welp, just ordered the AP2 cotters and retainers for my AP1. I flew out to Mexico for the holidays and left my car with a friend in SD while I crossed over the border and took a domestic flight out of Tijuana to CDMX. On the way home she started slightly misfiring, the CEL would flash occasionally. It was raining on the drive up to Ventura from SD so I didn't get on VTEC or rev it high, mostly just easy driving. Finally stopped raining and checked the valve adjustment, since I knew that's what the issue was. #4 intake valves had been giving me some issues where I would do the adjustment and only several thousand miles later I had to readjust the valves again. Only this time I couldn't fit a gauge between the rocker arm and the valve spring , even with the tappet screw fully loose. After closer inspection and some reading on here, i realized the cotters/retainers had failed/started to fail on the intake valves on #4.

I get the new cotters and retainers from my local Honda dealer tomorrow as well as the compressor tool from Amazon. I recently replaced a broken tappet screw on #4 cylinder as well, so Im familiar with the camshaft removal process. Hoping to have this job done in 3-4 hours or less.
I was thinking of repainting my valve cover with a fresh coat of wrinkle paint but I think its still a lil too cold for that. It's a high of 63 tomorrow, wrinkle paint ideal temp is between 60-93 degrees.

 

I like the look of a polished VC. Since it's aluminum I wish there were a way to anodize it, along with the hood, that would look really cool.